I have a photo that need some legs slimming down!
should be easy to do as its a plain background
can anyone help as my attempts in paint look crap
lol, I got a min, send it to email@example.com , I'll see what I can do
I have a smart object in the shape of a letter. It's currently solid black. I'm trying to get it to look like some other letters which are textured a kind of mottled white.
What's the most effective way or better yet, the easiest way, to replicated that texture in the black letter?
(note: this weekend i'm using CS3)
Incidentally, the original textured letters also have a textured (mottled gold) border. Is there quick way to copy that too?
My initial thoughts:
Merge them into one layer and just clone it. But that'd be messy and take forever to do properly.
You wait five years and then this comes comes along.
If you create a new layer above the smart object and alt-click it, it should constrain any paint on that layer to where there are pixels on the layer below. Then it should be relatively simple to clone the pattern from the textured letters.
If you want to PM us a link to the file I can probably sort it out while watching the prologue this afternoon.
AVG was always finding false positives. Avast is much better and you can download a pirate voice for it.
My Avast pops up every 30 minutes saying it has blocked a trojan horse, but it won't get rid of it. This recently happened in an interview which was slightly embarrassing.
What does this have to do with photoshop, anyway?
AVB is a nutter. BFS will prevail on Sunday with a contiguous selection.
A question for those who know stuff about Photoshop, and copy machines.
So I was wondering it would be a good idea to create a document in the excact size it will be printed later,
and 'rasterize' it at the excact 'resolution' ("output"-dialogue in PS's 'Bitmap' menu) the copy machine prints it at.
SO... do copy machines actually print at fixed, or 'native' resolutions?
Sorry if this is explained a little circitous, but english isn't my native language..
Thanks in advance for any help!
Have you tried using rasterbator?
I think that's for really blowing up pictures though iirc.
Can't try out atm, as I'm on mac..
hallo, i need to make an image within a barcode on photoshop
i have the image but need to put it inside the barcode box so that the colours of the barcode are reversed
sort of like this:
but where the image REVERSES the colour of the barcode
i've had a go doing it manually but it looks a bit shite, i'm thinking (hoping) i can find an image to use as a layer or backround and then drop the image on top or something. but it must be quicker to manipulate an image rather than make one from scratch, i thought that was the point?
help would be much appreciated!
I'd make paths of the barcode using the magic wand tool on one layer, paths of the image on another. Messing about with Select > Reverse > and Fill should get you there, I think.
Or just make a duplicate of the barcode layer and invert the colours, then select/invert selection on the image to remove the white lines except where the image is
aces, thanks guys i'll give it a go
also thanks for moving my post to in here, didn't know there was a photoshop thread
Use an invert adjustment layer and paste the image into the mask.
Wow, busy thread. Anyone know the solution to this issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNbQyrtgaRM
I've got the same going on and getting a bit bored of it. Issue is:
Dredge, but definitely a Photoshop question:
What I want to do seems like it should be simple, re-link a load of linked smart objects from where they're currently kept (a single folder) to another single folder.
This for Arch-vis stuff where I've comped an image using various render passes. I want to keep the structure of the PSD and just swap out the revised renders to where they're saved in a new folder with the same file names. The equivalent in 3DSMax would be in the asset manager where you can change linked files paths, so this feels like it should be super easy. There's about 12 passes per image so doing them all at once would save a bit of time.
There's a couple of options under Layer > Smart Objects - Relink to file, and Replace contents.
Not sure what the difference between them is, but the first sounds like it should do what you're after. Can't find any way to do more than one at a time.
Yeah re-link file works, but has to be repeated for every linked layer. Seems a bit labourious when they're all named the same and all in one folder.
I believe 'Replace contents' is the non-linked version of this.
Think I'm going to have to learn some scripting.
Hey - quick question someone can hopefully help with.
I'm trying to combine multiple images of a type of graph (look like this: https://4bc8d809-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/computationalstylistics/projects/testing-rolling-stylometry/rolling-svm_100-features_5000-per-slice.png?attachauth=ANoY7crq0acxCC_bGSW676VR0_hn1ZPtaMfQOcrtj1_-Jkpaaea_Arv_2yAcAJcfZeoXoDAY539GSdKJgArLKu0qlu8kcT7Sgw8PP_IysEVCrmf_YKQ7opCKfD0sABIWYZ4XbRLGWvB0wTLvKXHZrEPU9c_APJfw3mMjkAH_EW7wcRfc6oPi3gqNqKeNL8WfOQmeb-AQB-ZBcWIwbZVKwyI2srel7_SAKT7RNvBSHsUV0e55Vho3svAnqITRYAnjn9CZDQoOExNjwnrAU3Ck-zuUta1kUnkFu_WnciGRpF-MRscgKAl-Iq7IaK0hBpDaFKGu4MZqGnAm&attredirects=0)
The idea is to layer many of them on top of each other and then play with the opacity or overlay so areas where the green/red is almost always green/red are clear. Even if there is an occasional/rare graph which doesn't fit the trend.
Pin Light works pretty well for this. However, two questions:
1) Does it matter what is the "base" layer and what is the blend layer? Or can I just highlight all layers, apply the overlay, and be content that they're being treated equally?
2) Anyone know of somewhere I can get a bit more detail on how it's actually measuring each layer?
Or, if anyone has a better idea of how to do this, I'm all ears!
This is doing my head in. Photoshop CS4 (on Win10) used to work fine, recently though I've noticed some of the filters are unavailable, it's now impossible to spherize a PNG image I'm working on.
Apparently setting the image mode to RGB / 8 Bits solves the issue. It doesn't.
Is it dependent on whether there's a selection?
That would explain why crop is disabled in the image menu.
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