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  • I might try plumber tape to see how it fares!

    I don't think the loctite (I'm using 243) or the threads are the problem, I keep reading that you're supposed to clean the threads when reapplying some. I'll try to find the one you mention, but that might be hard as I'm in mainland Europe.

  • cant seem to find any 37mm PDW mudguards in stock anywhere. long shot but does anyone know any stockists who might get them in soon?

    open to other suggestions on mudguards for my fairlight strael (28mm tyres)

  • Loctite is an adhesive, and any adhesive only works properly if the surfaces are cleaned. For a steel on steel bond, Loctite 243 shouldn't be too sensitive though.
    Just make sure with Loctite you tighten it immediately and then leave it. If it cures and then you break the bond, you have to take the bolt out and re-apply it.
    If you want something stronger the Loctite 290 (green) is the standard.

  • Are Flingers generally considered better than SKS? I'm building up a Dolan Preffisio frameset. Dolan supply the Flingers as part of their full builds. I've only used SKS before and tempted to go with what I know (considering how painful mudguard fitting can be) but if Flingers are good, and if they fit better on the Dolan may go with them.

  • I got 28s under my sks 35mm guards on my precursa and it worked well. Matte black looked good too

  • Are there any other Very wide 700c guards other than the sks 75s?

  • Wow that's pricey.

  • How confident would you be fitting the blumels 75u into a fork 70mm wide?
    They are aluminium I was wondering if I could dent them slightly.

  • Here is the recommended approach from BQ

    1 Attachment

    • Screenshot 2021-10-08 095009.png
  • Excellent, thanks for that. What's BQ?

  • BQ - Bicycle Quarterly Magazine.

    The Peter referenced is Peter Weigle who is the US's Rando builder extraordinaire.

  • Also in this predicament. On condors notification list for when they come back in stock. Meanwhile running 25mm tires with the pdw ponchos.

  • i just ordered some matte black 35mm sks ones at a third of the price. i havent got time for these out of stock games (a game i typically lose)

  • Thanks, that means I will probably have a local framebuilder drill through holes on the bridges so that I can use nylstop nuts instead of having to rely on loctite. A little less pretty but I don't want to have to use a q-tip and acetone each time I remove my mudguards.

    @motoko : I've been looking for this article for a while, but I can't manage to find this issue in France (BQ 34 I believe?), and I don't think they're available online. Any chance you could tell me what JP Weigle recommends when it comes to leather washers? Does he put them between the mudguard and the bridge exclusively, or does he also put one under between the bolt and the mudguard?

  • Does anyone know if M:Part Primo mudguards are any longer than SKS Bluemels? I would get longboards, but they need to fit over 40mm+ tyres.

  • Would sks chromoplastics not be suitable? They are available in 50mm+ widths

  • Are chromoplastics longer at the front than bluemels with their rubber flap?

  • Thinking of just drilling a hole in the fender and using some soft-ish washers for the attachment screw

    I have just done this on the rear of mine (SKS bluemels). feels really solid and looks somewhat elegant. i actually used a few of the plastic washers that came with the mudguard. will see how long this lasts with/without cracking

    still need to trim the rear stays. a friend has suggested cheap bolt cutters are the perfect tool. took me ages to trim the front ones with hacksaw

  • A dremel with a cutting disc did mine pretty easily.

  • Yep, boltcutters or dremel will be best, eye protection either way though :)

  • I have done this, and it's lasted years.

    1. Berthoud mudguards can make noises. My problems on a bike I use on mixed terrain was fixed by adding a second set of stays, the middle of the rear and the long extension on the front both flapped about. I’m using very short rear stays, attached Thorn style to an eye on the rack, they’re solid as fuck now. I think noises can emanate from bolts where they attach to the frame, and where the guards interface with the stays. I’ve experimented with small pieces of rubber and leather washers here and there, and they’re silent. Try adding rubber washers at the frame first.

    2. Yes, you can reuse the SKS QRs normally specced on the front, I’ve used them at the rear to allow wheel removal on ‘track ends’. They’re very solid, takes some force to pop the looped bit of the sks stay out and back in again.

  • Honjo/simworks mudguards, an hour in and finished the front one. I’ll do the rear after a late lunch and a beer.

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