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  • May be if you have a second set of stays which are vertical, in addition to horizontal stays.

    The traditional hack for this is a couple of zipties (or similar p-clip type bodge) at the two seat stays where the brake bridge would normally be.

  • Cheers, I’ll hack something together and post it here once I’m done.

  • I need some longer flaps. Raw is the answer, but there’s too many to choose from!

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  • Can I fit any guards onto a Kinesis 4 season frame or do I have to use Kinesis'
    own brand which are a bit pricey?

  • Fit any.

    Edit, that aren't too wide for ya frame.

  • I´m about to fit some mudguards, most likely SKS bluemels.
    Are there any elegant way to fit them to a bike with a vertical mount? Thinking of just drilling a hole in the fender and using some soft-ish washers for the attachment screw. Or will they crack after some use?

    Standard they come with these fittings:

    The other route would be GB or Velo Orange ones, a quite nice route.

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  • [half-witted idea deleted, duh]

  • I’ve used chromoplastics OK with direct mount bosses on frame/forks, washers are a good idea I think, especially between frame & guard. I’d use something soft too, leather or rubber. Also get yourself domed bolts for inside the guards.

  • get yourself domed bolts

    I like using old disc rotor bolts. Also Torx is always a good idea on dome heads :)

  • Definitely this, if you ever want to remove them as the small domes usually require, what, 3mm wrenches? So easy to spin out.

  • Also Torx is always a good idea on dome heads :)

    Good plan! Allen filled with grit is not good

  • I recently installed BBB CityGuard mudguards on my SpaceClydesdale. Had to buy a 700c set and a 20” set. They say that they clear 48mm. I’m running a Specialized Sawtooth in 700x42 on the rear with no issues and a bit of clearance and a 20x1.85” on the front and it’s fine. The front could be a lot longer both ways, but I solved that with a fender flap and I have a crappy 20” guard that I might extend under the crate at a later date. For the price they’re great, and installation was super easy compared to SKS and the Zefal ones I’ve used.

    Considering buying another set for my Paconi and going down to smaller tyres for next winter.

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  • Can you not mod the rear 20" guard for the front? That looks very short.

  • I tried, but because the bracket to attaches to the brake bridge on the rear slides along the guard for adjustment, it wasn’t stable enough on the front. I’d have to some how drill and attach the guard to the rack as well to stop it moving. Right now it provides ample feet coverage with the Buddy Flap. I might play around with it at some point.

    You can see the coverage in this photo, and it sits even closer to the ground when the stand is up.

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  • I'm looking for some 42mm Matte Black mudguards. SKS Blumels would be ideal but the Matte Black version appears to only be available in 35mm.

    Does anyone have any good recommendations?

  • Thanks so much! hopefully i can squeeze them in

  • Dremel is the answer if you can't.

  • I'm having a lot of thoughts about mudguards right now, let me share my anxieties all at once :

    1°) Stainless steel mudguards noise :
    I fitted Berthoud stainless steel mudguards on my bike (the ones that are epoxied black).
    They look pretty, but they make very sketchy noises when the road is ever so slightly bumpy. I’m never sure if it’s coming from my steel bike or the mudguards, and I don’t need this kind of stress on rides. They aren’t mounted with any rubber washer, as I’m a little strapped for space in the rear triangle. They might also be under a bit of tension : they’re 50 mm and I’m running 32 mm tyres, so I have to push the rear part in quite a bit to have a nice fender line.

    Is this noise unavoidable with stainless steel mudguards, even when mounted with rubber washers everywhere? This is not about stuff hitting the inside of the mudguards by the way, just the mudguard making lots of noise when vibrating. I’m considering moving to SKS longboards for this sole reason. I’m very happy with them on my commuter, they’ve been completely quiet so far.

    2°) SKS Quick release :
    Speaking of SKS, can their automatic stay release be used as a quick release, or is it solely a security feature made to be used once or twice ? I’m having thoughts about QR full coverage mudguards using fidlocks and the SKS stay release.

    3°) Has anybody found a way to reliably prevent loosening of mudguards screws ?
    My nice bike has vertical threaded eyelets at the chainstay bridge, the seatstay bridge and under the fork crown. Again, this looks nice, but I’m not a fan functionality wise. Through holes instead would be better and allow me to use nylstop nuts, which have been perfect for me in the past. For some reason, blue loctite isn’t working. I remove my mudguards periodically, maybe the threads are dirty and loctite isn’t sticking to anything ? Serrated washers have never worked for me. I have never tried wedge lock washers (would they work on plastic mudguards though?). I also have considered simply putting tape on the bolts, maybe that would prevent them from turning, and thus loosening ?

    All suggestions are welcome !

    4°) Attaching mudguards to seatstays :
    I am looking for a way to attach fenders struts on the seatstays, as my bike currently has hidden eyelets on the inside of the seatstays, which are a pain in the ass. P-clamp are the obvious answer, but I’m looking for something which wouldn’t have to be removed when I remove the fenders. I considered using a Tubus clampset, which has two holes, but alas the smallest diameter they have is 14 mm, while the seatsays’ diameter is only 10 mm. Will I be able to bend them to fit nicely around my seatsays ?
    I will eventually have eyelets brazed on the dropouts, as God intended, but in the meantime I’m looking for a temporary fix.

  • Has anybody found a way to reliably prevent loosening of mudguards screws ?

    Threadlock blue (medium strength)

  • This is probably hard to find in the wall of text, but I tried blue loctite and it isn't working.

    I might have to clean the thread thoroughly with acetone each time I remove the bolt? Again, this isn't ideal, the plan is to be able to easily switch between endurance road bike with 700c wheels and fenders and 650b gravel bike without fenders, and I don't want to have to clean each eyelet with acetone everytime I do that.

  • Oh sorry I missed that for some reason.

    Can you get plumbers tape on the screw?

  • Same problem no? Would have to reapply each time I put the mudguards back on, I think it gets shredded when you screw the bolt once.

  • I’ve used it on through axles and it’s been ok for a fair few on off applications. Maybe it behaves differently on finer threads.

    Sorry if obvious but make sure you wrap it in the right direction and it gets squashed into the threads rather than shredded / pushed out the way

  • You could try another loctite, one that drys thicker and more gummy rather than relying on a bond if that exists.

    Which one are you using atm? Recently I’ve been using a blue strength threadlock made by liqui moly that has been very effective

    Could be that the threads in the frame or on screw the are damaged too..

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