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  • You still need to get a nut and the brake under that

  • Don't understand, you haz illustration?

  • What’s the best mudguards for 29x2.2 Tyres?

  • Nope :(
    I find that if you use L brackets that the part that goes into the fender you have a thick nut that is either going to go under the fender and interfere with the tyre or go between the bracket and the brake. This can be avoided by using pop-rivets on the fender L bracket attachment and using a Sheldon nut on the backside of the brake.

    Craig Gaulzetti showed me a trick where you swap the front and rear calipers and then using rim-rattlers space out the rear brake that raises the fender mount.

  • I finally understand what you're getting at, sorry my brain trust was on a group-building retreat that day. I guess I haven't often run into calipers while installing fenders, the one time I can remember I used an L-bracket where the fender attachment portion was a bit longer and cleared the brake bolt. If there are really close tolerances between fender and tire I'll use a button head bolt on the inside, once even ground it down a bit after installation.

  • What's a rim rattler? Sounds like a euph.

  • What's a rim rattler? Sounds like a euph.

    Presta valve nut.

    If there are really close tolerances between fender and tire I'll use a button head bolt on the inside, once even ground it down a bit after installation.

    Yeah it’s usually the nut not the bolt that causes issues, I’ve used non-nylock nuts and loctighted them into place in the past.

  • I've got 65mm SKS guards on my big bro.

    You can get honjo simworks 65mm guards from fresh tripe if you want to spend big.

    SKS do ALU 75mm guards which are flat and would probably fit almost anything, but they're quite short. I have a new boxed set I could sell you if you wanted them.

  • Alternatives to sks for 700c 35mm guards? I've popped a pair on my dolan and they're doing the trick but are flexy as. Flexier than I remember on my surly. Replacement stays an option?

  • Is there a great difference in quality between Velo Orange, GB and Honjos?

  • I've found the rear mudguards of Velo Orange to be quite short, at least in the pictures.

    Gilles Berthoud are really nice bang for buck, have nothing bad to say about them.

    Honjo seems like the ultimate quality, but probably not worth the premium you're paying.

  • VO seem to be a bit longer than in the pictures. Not sure why, but my 35x700c ones are plenty long enough - they reach as far as the imaginary line which is the horizontal diameter of the rear wheel.

    Haven't used the other ones, but VO are very good.

  • Is max tyre clearance a pretty good indicator of the size of mudguards you can fit in a frame or does it not quite work like that? Sorry, this has probably been discussed at length before.

  • Yes. (Don’t know about GB).

    Honjos are 100% worth the money if you get the right size for your tyres. The fixings are better and the profile is more useful (they wrap around more).

    Don’t get me wrong, for the money VOs are still good as long as you use the internal stick on supports. I’ve had them crack If you don’t.

    People balk at the price tag, but then spend the same it more more on a foam hat or fancy shoes, that don’t offer anywhere near the same practical benefits for the all weather rider.

    Plus they look way better than the VOs. The finish on them is next level.

    TL;dr, VOs are fine, honjos are better.

  • Depends. Easier just to measure the insides with a tape measure.

  • Were Honjo going to bring out a 27.5+ fender? Are they available anywhere ?

  • I don't know much about mudguards. I have fitted some Portland Design works in the passed and some rubbish plastic ones, but that's it.

    I order some guards from Omnium for my cargo bike. They turned up, two plastic guards and the hardware as per the attached photo, no instructions! I'm a like bit WTF!

    I can't see how these are supposed to go together. At the very least shouldn't there be some corresponding bolts to go with all those nuts. I'm guessing there supposed to be used to attach the metal supports to the guards. What are the odd little bolts with a hole in the head for ? and for that matter the little rubber bungs. I'm very confused !

    can anybody point me in the right direction ? :)

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  • Oli have these, they look far better than my longboards. Short, get some mudflaps

  • When you have a carbon fork which is only drilled at the back, and a PDW guard which is designed to be hung from the front of the fork, and so you need to move the position of the guard mount about 20mm towards the rear on the guard, do you:

    Somehow buy or fabricate a bracket with a longer horizonal section

    Drill new holes and relocate the existing bracket to the new location

    Something else?

  • What’s the problem when you just mount it at the back as is?

  • It's just that it's a bit low at the back.

    (ie flap a bit close to the ground)

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