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  • Add some huge flapz

  • I wouldn't... I find the wider SKS Bluemels to be super wobbly. They're fine on their thinner models, but they don't seem to reinforce the wider ones, so they flex tons and tons.

  • Old Waterbottles work really well. They still have a bit of flex, but are also solid enough to not flap about.

    Plus they can be 'jazzy' if you have 'jazzy' old waterbottles...

  • so they flex tons and tons

    Only horizontally. If you're mounting a 75g light on top of the front mudguard it'll be fine

  • Last weekend I rode sixty miles of canals on my CdF & my brother, being dismayed at how muddy my bike was, gave me some mudguards he had lying around to keep things a bit cleaner.

    So I get around to trying to fit them, & manage to get the rear on file with zero rub, but when I come around to trying to fit the front, I'm lost. The stays won't clear the disc brake on the fork. It needs to be like a centimetre out, which seems a bit wild & inconsistent with the other side. Is that the only option, or is it just incompatibly designed guards/fork?

    Oh yeah, the hole is threaded too, so that's another fun thing to solve.

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  • @GideonPARANOID You can space it out with a load of washers or bolts so it clears the calliper. Or get this adapter set and space both sides equally­-disc-brake-spacer-kit-for-full-metal-fe­nder-9844-p.asp

  • Ah, so that it the way to go - cheers. Will try & find some spacers/screws in Wilkos later. Cheers!

  • I have some 10mm nylon ones that I got specifically for that purpose. They absorb a fair bit of vibration so the guards stay silent. PM me if you want a couple... Happy to post some to you.

  • Cheers, may take you up on that at some point.

    Did a bit of fettling & it seems I've got another problem anyway - top of the mudguard is too low down & rubs on the wheel. Think I need to modify the bit where it attaches by the crown to allow it to sit higher. I'll tackle that some other time as I'm tired & not much rain on the forecast anyway.

  • Depending on length required and your tolerance for audax chic, a milk bottle or similar plastic, or a heavier grade of rubber. Apparently damp proof course sheet is ideal, but I couldn't be bothered trying to find any scraps and just bought a sheet of neoprene rubber (3mm I think?) off eBay for a quid or so.

  • I just bought some Edge AL 700x46 ... I bought into the marketing that they are quite stiff, because I wanted the single stay design to make it easier to fit to an On-One Inbred. It does seem true, they are stiffer than the Chromoplastics on my other bike and they are certainly better than the wobbly single-stay ones from Halfords on my town bike. I just tried attaching my (battery) front light to them using the rubber clip - weight 150g - and bounced the front wheel a bit - seemed OK. I've not got experience of using dynamo lights on a mudguard, though, so this is not a great opinion.

  • These Bluemel 75 U well as having low coverage...also don't fit my frame. Extreme regret. Don't suppose anyone here wants to 75mm mudguards to save me the hassle of posting them back to germany?

  • Fitted some alu Fend Off guards to my new bike. Just about cover 35mm tyres ok. Currently have 32mm continental grandprix on and there is a fair bit more space. The included flaps work well.

  • What Trek model is that?

  • checkpoint

  • get those stays trimmed!

  • Hello mudguards specialists, just a quick question that certainly might have already been adressed but I am not sure I am able to find answers. I know that it will always be bodged or far from ideal, but is really dumb to conceive mounting mudguards on a frame that is not made to receive them?
    To be precise, I converted a more or less old (80's or 90's maybe) road bike to 650B to have a little more room for bigger tire for comfort, and the bike feels really great now.
    However, the aim of this conversion was to have more clearance (700x26 was the max possible) thus clearance especially on the fork is far from huge.
    I was trying to think about a way to mount stainless steel mudguards but I think this might not work ; is someone on here managed to mount metal fenders (650Bx40 from GB for example) on which they trimmed the edges of the mudguards just where it comes under the fork to allow sliding it into place, without creating any major stress risers etc? I thought maybe if it is trimmed in width under the fork crown with a dremel properly with round edges, and maintained in place with two set of stays to reduce constrains on the fork mounting area this could potentially work, maybe even sith a reinforcement with metal sheets on the fork mounting area, but I doubt it.
    Anyone managed to do something similar?

  • yeah need to..

    Its the checkpoint ALR 4

  • I did similar, trimming side sections out of a plastic and alloy front guard to fit it through a fork, and eventually it snapped at the place I'd trimmed it (so right underneath the crown). If you can support the front section of it another way, with a stay forward of the fork (mine is now attached to the basket above it it!) or something that might be stronger.

  • Yes that is what I thought, have a set of stays towards the rear of the fork as usual but add a set of stays towards the front of the fork to support the muguard better an limit flex that might induce cracks where it would have been made slimmer/weaker

  • Steel should be way less prone to cracks than alloy/plastic sandwich

  • yes that is also why I considered GB stainless steel mudguards for this, but wondered if anyone had tried this before trying it myself and throwing money over the window haha (EDIT: maybe "throwing money over the window" isn't an actual saying in English, translated directly from French but I think it is understandable)

  • Does anybody east london-ish have a front rubber clippy raceblade type mudguard knocking about spare that I could have for cheaps? I had a set that I was happily using for a while until I destroyed the front one in a fit of rub related rage. I'd like to avoid buying a new full set if possible.

  • I’ve had some Portland design works fenders fitted for the pasted couple of weeks, as ever they were a pain in the arse to fit to a bike without tabs.

    They do a great job of keep me and the bike clean and dry, but what I don’t understand is how they get so totally covered in shit, all the shit I guess me and the bike would have been covered in, the outside of them are totally caked. Not totally sure how that works.

  • What parts of the fenders are covered? They tend to throw a lot of schmutz forward, which you then ride through.

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