Wow, sorry it's taken me so long to do an update. It's been one thing after another stopping me doing the very last steps - first I didn't have a job and couldn't afford to work on it, then I had a job and had no time to work on it... but over the last couple of months I've been slowly acquiring the remaining parts and fitting them to the frame.
I'm a volunteer at the Broken Spoke Bike Co-op in Oxford which has meant that I've been able to use lots of pretty shop tools and do every bit of labour on the bike myself. I've also built the wheels: Shimano XT M756 hubs front and back (back respaced to 120mm with a solid axle and a Velosolo bolt on sprocket) laced to Halo Aerotrack rims with DT Swiss Competition spokes on the drive/disc sides and Revolutions on the other side. Saddle is a Brooks Team Pro Classic, handlebars are Profile OS Airwings with green and brown harlequin tape and twine. I've also fitted SKS Longboard mudguards.
The pedals were a bit of a faff - I wanted to use Wellgo QRD system pedals so I can swap between straps and clipless easily, but the M138 pedals I got originally were much too small for the Pedalbelt straps from Kickstarter. So after a failed experiment with the Wellgo V12 clones, I got hold of some normal C161 pedals which share the same axle as the M138s, and swapped them for the quick release ones. This is a cheaper way of making up for the fact that only a few QRD models are available in the UK (potential swappers, do note that the QRD axles are both right hand threaded, while the non-QRD axles have one left hand threaded).
Naturally you might be wondering why I've not rushed out on it and taken some better photos. This is mostly because I had just finished a long session working on it and began to ride it home, when there was a bad noise, and the tyre began to rub on the chainstay. I took it home and examined it, and the results can be best experienced by flipping backwards and forwards between the two photos labelled 'wibble' and 'wobble' in my photostream. Almost immediately, the joints between the dropouts and the stays had failed - this had been my first time bonding stainless steel with epoxy, and it's not easy.
This presented a bit of a problem, as they were still very strongly attached by the stiff chainstays (the carbon 'lugs' were entirely intact; the dropouts had simply separated from the epoxy plugs inside). After a botched attempt to drill through the lug and pin the joint (stainless steel that has been work-hardened by milling is not only very hard to glue, but also very hard to drill...), I had no choice but to pull them out, a very, very stressful process. When they were out, I did what I should have done in the first place, keying them very aggressively for a strong bond: Getting rough with the dropouts by comatus1649, on Flickr
They were then glued back into place with Marine JB Weld, more or less the strongest adhesive there is for this kind of application. Learn from my mistakes - smooth, hard stainless steel is extremely difficult to glue, and I shouldn't have made such a pig's ear of it in the first place. It's embarrassing to have such a critical failure documented for all to read but this thread isn't about making me look good ;) This is by far the hardest joint of the entire bike to get right, and it's a pretty important one.
The good news is that I'm pretty sure the bike is ready now, components and all. However, I'm in no great rush to get out on it because the salty roads are playing merry hell with my other bike and by the time I get home from work it's dark... there's also a terrible temptation to never try it in case it breaks again, in which case I've run out of (non-drastic) options and will have to get business cards printed with 'Novelty Bike-Shaped Ornament Maker' on them. This weekend I'm working but the next I'll have a chance to take it for a good test ride and get some decent photos, or that's the plan anyway...
Ben
Belated reply to Djangoberry: garden cane might be your best bet - it is actually generally bamboo, just really skinny stuff (harvested young, I assume). I won't be putting any cable stops on at the moment but will if I decide to run it singlespeed or even geared in future. I'd probably epoxy some normal braze-on cable stops onto the tube rather than using cane/bamboo because of the sizing issues.
Wow, sorry it's taken me so long to do an update. It's been one thing after another stopping me doing the very last steps - first I didn't have a job and couldn't afford to work on it, then I had a job and had no time to work on it... but over the last couple of months I've been slowly acquiring the remaining parts and fitting them to the frame.
I'm a volunteer at the Broken Spoke Bike Co-op in Oxford which has meant that I've been able to use lots of pretty shop tools and do every bit of labour on the bike myself. I've also built the wheels: Shimano XT M756 hubs front and back (back respaced to 120mm with a solid axle and a Velosolo bolt on sprocket) laced to Halo Aerotrack rims with DT Swiss Competition spokes on the drive/disc sides and Revolutions on the other side. Saddle is a Brooks Team Pro Classic, handlebars are Profile OS Airwings with green and brown harlequin tape and twine. I've also fitted SKS Longboard mudguards.
The pedals were a bit of a faff - I wanted to use Wellgo QRD system pedals so I can swap between straps and clipless easily, but the M138 pedals I got originally were much too small for the Pedalbelt straps from Kickstarter. So after a failed experiment with the Wellgo V12 clones, I got hold of some normal C161 pedals which share the same axle as the M138s, and swapped them for the quick release ones. This is a cheaper way of making up for the fact that only a few QRD models are available in the UK (potential swappers, do note that the QRD axles are both right hand threaded, while the non-QRD axles have one left hand threaded).
Here is a terrible photo of the finished article:

Quick snap of the finished article by comatus1649, on Flickr
Naturally you might be wondering why I've not rushed out on it and taken some better photos. This is mostly because I had just finished a long session working on it and began to ride it home, when there was a bad noise, and the tyre began to rub on the chainstay. I took it home and examined it, and the results can be best experienced by flipping backwards and forwards between the two photos labelled 'wibble' and 'wobble' in my photostream. Almost immediately, the joints between the dropouts and the stays had failed - this had been my first time bonding stainless steel with epoxy, and it's not easy.
This presented a bit of a problem, as they were still very strongly attached by the stiff chainstays (the carbon 'lugs' were entirely intact; the dropouts had simply separated from the epoxy plugs inside). After a botched attempt to drill through the lug and pin the joint (stainless steel that has been work-hardened by milling is not only very hard to glue, but also very hard to drill...), I had no choice but to pull them out, a very, very stressful process. When they were out, I did what I should have done in the first place, keying them very aggressively for a strong bond:

Getting rough with the dropouts by comatus1649, on Flickr
They were then glued back into place with Marine JB Weld, more or less the strongest adhesive there is for this kind of application. Learn from my mistakes - smooth, hard stainless steel is extremely difficult to glue, and I shouldn't have made such a pig's ear of it in the first place. It's embarrassing to have such a critical failure documented for all to read but this thread isn't about making me look good ;) This is by far the hardest joint of the entire bike to get right, and it's a pretty important one.
The good news is that I'm pretty sure the bike is ready now, components and all. However, I'm in no great rush to get out on it because the salty roads are playing merry hell with my other bike and by the time I get home from work it's dark... there's also a terrible temptation to never try it in case it breaks again, in which case I've run out of (non-drastic) options and will have to get business cards printed with 'Novelty Bike-Shaped Ornament Maker' on them. This weekend I'm working but the next I'll have a chance to take it for a good test ride and get some decent photos, or that's the plan anyway...
Ben
Belated reply to Djangoberry: garden cane might be your best bet - it is actually generally bamboo, just really skinny stuff (harvested young, I assume). I won't be putting any cable stops on at the moment but will if I decide to run it singlespeed or even geared in future. I'd probably epoxy some normal braze-on cable stops onto the tube rather than using cane/bamboo because of the sizing issues.