You haven't mentioned the cogs you are using? Phil Wood on their website do not recommend using Surly or EAI cogs on their hubs as their width at the shoulder can reduce the amount of thread engagement on the lockring.
Conversely a 'skinny' cog would reduce the amount of thread engagement on the hub ending up with more force going through less threads and you might not be able to get the lockring snug enough.
Cheapo cogs might also have shitty threads with 'gaps' meaning again reduced amounts of threads actually in contact betwixt cog and hub. Steel cog and alu hub with poor tolerances on both is a bad mix but buggering a Goldtech is impressive.
Only option with stripped threads is to use something like JB Weld to permanently attach a cog to the hub as a last resort.
You haven't mentioned the cogs you are using? Phil Wood on their website do not recommend using Surly or EAI cogs on their hubs as their width at the shoulder can reduce the amount of thread engagement on the lockring.
Conversely a 'skinny' cog would reduce the amount of thread engagement on the hub ending up with more force going through less threads and you might not be able to get the lockring snug enough.
Cheapo cogs might also have shitty threads with 'gaps' meaning again reduced amounts of threads actually in contact betwixt cog and hub. Steel cog and alu hub with poor tolerances on both is a bad mix but buggering a Goldtech is impressive.
Only option with stripped threads is to use something like JB Weld to permanently attach a cog to the hub as a last resort.