If you're using the handy tool type allen key, you're probably are not levering enough torque on the bolt. I don't like the blue loctitie either. 14 have some excellent anit shake stuff that sorted my lock ring that was continuously coming loose when using the blue shite. If you are worried about over tightening refer to the manufacture's quoted values. If you need, I have a dial measuring torque wrench that you could use.
The best way to get a good fit is this:
Put the cranks on
tighten to the stated torque
take an easy ride for about 100 yards
then re-tighten to the stated torque
repeat parts 3 & 4 but increasing the intensity of each subsequent ride until the bolt/crank on longer moves up the taper.
I tightened the drive side up using my wratchet and socket with alan key thing (sorry non technical terms).
This gave me much more leverage than my normal alan key, unfortunately my chainring ended up against the frame (the chainstays).
current plan of action is to try the chainring on the outside of the cranks as opposed to the inside but i'm not sure if the extra tightening will give me a straight chainline.
If not i suppose i will need a new BB with a different spindle length?
I tightened the drive side up using my wratchet and socket with alan key thing (sorry non technical terms).
This gave me much more leverage than my normal alan key, unfortunately my chainring ended up against the frame (the chainstays).
current plan of action is to try the chainring on the outside of the cranks as opposed to the inside but i'm not sure if the extra tightening will give me a straight chainline.
If not i suppose i will need a new BB with a different spindle length?