• A couple of people have asked about fitting track ends to an old steel road/mtb frame. This is what I did with my old Raleigh Yukon:

    Here is what I started with; 23" Raleigh Yukon MTB frame, reynolds 501 all terrain tube set, slightly tired but still pretty solid. I later cut/filed off the braze-ons and brake posts too.

    After stripping the paint back (and vile smelling plastic coating) with a blow lamp and wire brush. you can see where the flat plate drop out is brazed into the ends of the stays, there is a small amount of brass showing at the joints.

    These are the track ends I chose, Long Shen LR15 from Ceeway :http://www.framebuilding.com/Frame%20End­s%203.htm in retrospect a flat plate drop out like the RE1410 http://www.framebuilding.com/Frame%20End­s%202.htm would have made life much easier, they could have been brazed in place of the originals with very little work.

    This shows the new track end laid over the original drop out, I had measured the angles to make sure they would be a pretty close fit.

    I cut the drop outs in half between the stays so I could remove them one joint at a time, I cut the first with a hacksaw, then resorted to oxy-acetylene for the other (fire is much more fun than manual hand tools). We then heated the joins where the dropout entered the seat and chain stays one as a time to melt the brass (the tubes got to a good cherry red/orange)before the brass turned molten, then the lumps of dropout were tweeked and pulled out one at a time. This left the ends of the stays as shown here, now if I'd have bought the flat plate track ends I could have just filed the ends to fit into the stays and brazed them in, would have taken 20mins.

    I offered the track end up again to check alignment and measure where I would need to cut the end of the stays, once cut I then needed to ream out the stays to get a nice snug fit.

    I cut the stays to length, the chain stay just needed a little reaming to fit, the seatstay was determined to be a right pain in the arse! The lug on the track end would not fit into the seat stay, too larger diameter, so firstly I cut it off flush and concentrated on getting the chainstay right:

    Once the chainstay was good, I went back to the seat stay. I decided the best solution was to cut away at the outer of the track end, to create a new lug that would fit inside the seat stay, this proved not that hard, dremel being the weapon of choice, as you can see this lug now fitted inside the seat stay and gave plenty of surface to braze. my plan is to build it up with brass of silver solder and file a nice smooth transition from the track end to the seat stay.

    We brazed the track ends in like this with a block of metal bolted between them to ensure the track ends stayed aligned and the design just so happened to reduce the spacing from 135mm down to 120mm (ok that was a happy coincidence) and then the back end of the bike was hammerited white. since then the seatstay to seat tube join has fractured on one side (looks a pretty crappy braze from new), so the frame is layed up until I get this repaired, I will then add more brass or silver solder and get the transitions from track end to stays much smoother, then get the frame powder coated. the work I have done on the frame seems to have held up pretty well to the rigours of a 19stone oaf commuting on rough roads and over kerbs on them. If I was to do the conversion again, I would use the flat plate track ends as it would have saved a lot of time and made the job much easier and neater.

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