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You were right and it was just more leverage required. I don’t have washers easily to hand but read somewhere you could use a headset cap, no idea where author finds his headset caps but all mine had holes too small so I improvised with a piece of plastic that had a hole in. Then got tired of waiting the 2 days for post so took both my headset cone spanners and duct taped them together for more sturdiness, and stood on the end - much success. The LBS had indeed greased the threads so it came out without too much fuss. And when I say “it” I mean this disaster..
Thanks so much everyone for the advice - this forum is one of my favourite places on the Internet.
Have now put it all back together (and stepped on the wrenches to tighten the BB) after a brief cross threading scare (my BB DS shell seemed to have two 1mm deep notches across perpendicular to the threads for some odd reason) and the bike has survived a three mile journey so far with no creaks or squeaks from the BB. Now wondering if it would be worth bringing it in to a shop somewhere to get everything properly tightened..? Don’t trust how tight I’ve been able to get the cranks on with just my hex keys and am slightly paranoid that I might be riding around with a loose BB and everything is going to catastrophically fail on me on a long ride.
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youClown
snottyotter
Could be the case- I think it’s mostly just not using tools with enough leverage, and adjustable spanners are also utterly crap when you really need to put a lot of force through them. Wouldn’t like to blame the LBS without knowing for sure!
@youClown The silverline 32mm spanner is a beast, should make a lot of difference. Remember to secure the Bb removal tool to the bb using a crank bolt and washer if possible, means you can really crank on it without worrying about the tool slipping off. Always use the ring side when possible