I’ve had this hanging in the garage for a bit and having just finished off a frame I started ages ago that does the same thing, it’s unlikely this’ll see use anytime soon so would like to move it on.
It’s pretty much a 56cm frame. My cad drawing says 56cm c2t/48cm c2c seattube and a 54cm c2c toptube but I’m pretty sure the toptube is actually longer than that. (Exact measurements to follow)
120mm spacing at the rear, 100mm at the front obviously. 27.2mm seatpost. Regular threaded bb shell and 1 1/8" headtube.
It’s got matching Konga fork yoke on the fork and seat stays.
It’s got a straight gauge downtube so you can ping rocks up at it all day long and not worry about denting the tube.
The rest of the tubing is a mix of half decent Columbus stuff and the top top tube is a pretty nice aero profile tubing (might be Reynolds) that I got from a mate.
It’ll take 43mm tyres easily.
It’s pretty unique and (at least I thought) a ton of fun to ride.
There are mudguard mounts front and rear though I’ve never used the rear ones.
There are brake posts (posts removed in pictures but will be included) under the seatstays and zip tie cable guides along the bottom of the toptube so if you don’t use a rear brake then they don’t look out of place but they are there if you want.
The paint is a bit chipped especially under the downtube and around the stays and there’s as bit of a dent in the passing from where I clamped a mudguard on the seattube.
It’s been treated with Dinitrol inside the tubes.
It has it quirks so let’s address those,
It’s steep, high and tight. Angles are like, 74/75 deg for both the seat and head tubes. Bottom bracket drop is minimal, 30mm or something. I liked it. Pedal strike was never an issue, I thought it handled fine and the only time I ever noticed the bb height was getting on and off it. The steep angles mean the wheelbase is short so I’m pretty sure it gets toe overlap but i don’t remember it being particularly worse than my other fixed bikes.
The seattube gets a bit snug lower down. My reamer won’t quite reach the bottom of the lower toptube joint. A long post will definitely go in and I’d always prefer a snug seat tube over a loose one but you wouldn’t want to be adjusting the seat height on the regular.
I got the bottle cage mounts a bit wrong. I did 4 downtube cage bosses, the only way to fit two cages is to put the downtube one on the top two of the four mounts. This then means that you need a side exit cage because it’s pretty close to the second toptube. If you only want to run one cage then you can run it right down at the bottom and have tons of room to get bottles in and out or on the middle position which works best with smaller bottles.
You can put a cargo/anything cage on the downtube but you wouldn’t get a bottle cage on the seattube at the same time.
I originally built the fork with the brake posts on the back (a la Pace/Orange forks) but later shifted them to the front and added another set of mudguard/rack eyes to the fork so the paint is buggered. The fork also flexes quite as lot so you get brake judder with a mini v or a canti.
I’d like £225 for the frame and fork and that includes shipping it to your door as I'm in Glasgow.
I’ve had this hanging in the garage for a bit and having just finished off a frame I started ages ago that does the same thing, it’s unlikely this’ll see use anytime soon so would like to move it on.
It’s pretty much a 56cm frame. My cad drawing says 56cm c2t/48cm c2c seattube and a 54cm c2c toptube but I’m pretty sure the toptube is actually longer than that. (Exact measurements to follow)Size are,
Seattube - 58.5cm c2t. 47cm c2c.
Toptube - 55cm c2c.
120mm spacing at the rear, 100mm at the front obviously. 27.2mm seatpost. Regular threaded bb shell and 1 1/8" headtube.
It’s got matching Konga fork yoke on the fork and seat stays.
It’s got a straight gauge downtube so you can ping rocks up at it all day long and not worry about denting the tube.
The rest of the tubing is a mix of half decent Columbus stuff and the top top tube is a pretty nice aero profile tubing (might be Reynolds) that I got from a mate.
It’ll take 43mm tyres easily.
It’s pretty unique and (at least I thought) a ton of fun to ride.
There are mudguard mounts front and rear though I’ve never used the rear ones.
There are brake posts (posts removed in pictures but will be included) under the seatstays and zip tie cable guides along the bottom of the toptube so if you don’t use a rear brake then they don’t look out of place but they are there if you want.
The paint is a bit chipped especially under the downtube and around the stays and there’s as bit of a dent in the passing from where I clamped a mudguard on the seattube.
It’s been treated with Dinitrol inside the tubes.
It has it quirks so let’s address those,
It’s steep, high and tight. Angles are like, 74/75 deg for both the seat and head tubes. Bottom bracket drop is minimal, 30mm or something. I liked it. Pedal strike was never an issue, I thought it handled fine and the only time I ever noticed the bb height was getting on and off it. The steep angles mean the wheelbase is short so I’m pretty sure it gets toe overlap but i don’t remember it being particularly worse than my other fixed bikes.
The seattube gets a bit snug lower down. My reamer won’t quite reach the bottom of the lower toptube joint. A long post will definitely go in and I’d always prefer a snug seat tube over a loose one but you wouldn’t want to be adjusting the seat height on the regular.
I got the bottle cage mounts a bit wrong. I did 4 downtube cage bosses, the only way to fit two cages is to put the downtube one on the top two of the four mounts. This then means that you need a side exit cage because it’s pretty close to the second toptube. If you only want to run one cage then you can run it right down at the bottom and have tons of room to get bottles in and out or on the middle position which works best with smaller bottles.
You can put a cargo/anything cage on the downtube but you wouldn’t get a bottle cage on the seattube at the same time.
I originally built the fork with the brake posts on the back (a la Pace/Orange forks) but later shifted them to the front and added another set of mudguard/rack eyes to the fork so the paint is buggered. The fork also flexes quite as lot so you get brake judder with a mini v or a canti.
I’d like £225 for the frame and fork and that includes shipping it to your door as I'm in Glasgow.
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