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  • I have these hubs as well and didn't realise you could just take them apart. how did you get the axle out?

    I love this comment, because I totally get that feeling. Was taught to strip a hope on a mechanics course and it really is like a skate wheel but with holes for spokes where there might be urethane. Magnets, magic, demons, gyroscopes, what do we think is going on in there?

  • yeah, it totally makes sense that if the internal diameter of the shell is the same, then you can use the TA bearings and endcaps. i didn't even consider that was a possibility until i saw this thread.

    but, but, but... how do you get the qr axle out? support the shell at one end and bang the axle with a hammer at the other?

  • If memory serves, yes. Unless you have the tool to take out and replace the DT ratchet ring (1/3 remains in the hub when you remove the freehub), knock out the bearing on the NDS. If you go for the DS and don’t have the tool to remove the ratchet ring, it’s a royal pain to press in a new bearing.

  • For the rear hub you don't need to remove the sealed bearings, only get the appropriate end cap for your frame rear spacing. You have options for QR, 142mm Thru Axle and Boost (148mm) Thru Axle.

    Novatec has also a similar system with their 4 in 1 hub models that can be adapted to different frame/ fork specs only replacing the end caps.

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