• It will feel very different to a normal hub; the cogging effect you get from the magnets makes it very hard to gauge (and makes it feel very draggy in a way that isn't the case when actually running at speed). The correct bearing adjustment is to set the cones so you can just feel a bit of side-to-side play at the rim when the QR is open, disappearing once the QR is half-way closed. If you've not got a hub vice/dropout washers this is a bit of a faff - the first time I tried it on a dynowheel it took me about 45 minutes! Should be worth it in the longer-term; if you check the adjustment after a couple of hundred miles once run in, you should get further thousands of miles out of it without trouble.

  • Ah yeah that makes sense. Don't have a hub vice - what do you mean by dropout washers though? Googling produced a few different results

  • Basically you just put washers of the same thickness as your dropouts* on the QR skewer next to the hub locknuts; this should then mean that closing the QR compresses the axle and bearings by the same amount as when it's in the frame.

    On the spokes, I guess it depends on whether they were rounded up or down. 1mm shouldn't be critical - some spokes only come in odd increments and some only in even anyhow. Plus fractionally short is usually better than fractionally long.

    *Though thinking about this a little more, if you adjust the QR so it takes the same force to close once clamped down on the washers as it does when in the frame, it should provide the same degree of compression to the bearings?

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