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but I don't know how well that works if you've oiled the threads to help the wheel build in the first place.
The idea of spoke prep or boiled linseed oil is that it's a lubricant during the build, then locks everything in place some time later. You'll get many opinions about whether that's a good thing or not.
Did you prestress the wheel? It sounds like spoke windup to me (with a bit of under-tensioning thrown in), though odd it should happen just to the drive-side on a equally tensioned wheel.
Jon.-
Well, i stressed the spokes & did a bit of leaning on the rims, though there wasn't much tweaking needed after doing so.
Think I'll run it as is (just re-tensioned & trued up the wheel) for a week or so & keep my eye on the spoke tension. Also, I'll take an 11g spoke key with me. If it all stays true I'll try some this thread-lock & keep fingers crossed
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I've never bothered with anything threadlocking - I just dip the ends of the spokes in gear oil and dip a cotton bud in the oil to lubricate the eyelets, all to prevent excess wind-up and nipple binding. OTOH I've mostly built front wheels; if I were building rear wheels that were heavily dished and/or for touring, I'm heavy enough that threadlocking the NDS would probably be a good idea.
ian(conker)
Thrustvector
That's a bit weird then; assuming the rim's not an offset one, you'd expect the tensions to be equal once it's central. I've heard of people using thin threadlock on the spoke side of the nipples and letting it wick up the threads, but I don't know how well that works if you've oiled the threads to help the wheel build in the first place.
(As an aside, I'm not entirely convinced heavyweight spokes are necessary for a cargo bike; if you look at the tensile strength of spoke steel, standard 14/15 gauge spokes can crank up to rim-breaking tensions without going anywhere near yield stress.)