-
Yeah steel steerer. Did wonder about going through the steerer, the wall thickness would definitely make me feel better about drilling it but was thinking the action of steering (or more if the bike were to fall and the steering flopped around) would be trying to shear the cable.
M_V-
What I plan to do on my rando bike is into the steerer through the crown, out through a hole in the side of the steere in the mimimal stress axis, i.e. 3/9 o'clock, then loosley wrap around the steerer before going down the downtube, through BB shell then out a braze-on on the back of steerer.
You could exit at the bb-shell through a vent port and into a mudguard, or up seattube and out through top of seatpost to a saddle mounted light.SEe these albums and the attachment for some fancy ideas for a ring commutator, but it touches on steerer drilling.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/21624415@N04/albums/72157710996851941https://www.flickr.com/photos/21624415@N04/albums/72157674615273680/with/35129857301/
-
If you had a big stack and vigorously turned the bars right the way around then I suppose it might be an issue. If the hole in the steerer is deburred though and there's decent slack in the cable I think it'd probably be OK though. The Son coax cable is pretty easy to use but as WilliamJohn says good wire strippers make life a lot easier. Or, frankly, any wire strippers.
motoko
Brommers
Steel steerer on the fork? You could go front light - bottom of the steerer - up the steerer - through a hole into the steerer into the top tube - along the top tube - pop out of the top tube in front of the seat tube, connect to light.