• Very nice. I always liked the look of Resilion brakes. Apparently they're were pretty good stoppers for the time.

  • Thanks.
    Never owned any Resilion brakes and I think that I've read somewhere they were notoriously difficult to set up :)

  • I have succeeded in making Resilion brakes work quite well, but it was a bit of a struggle.

    Here are some of the problems:

    Each brake has to the right size for the frame member it goes onto so, for example, a front brake intended for round section forks will not fit D section blades. The differences include the detachable bar which holds the cable nipple and the brake shoes - so if you have a pile of assorted Resilion bits you need a fair amount of luck to find a set that matches.

    The cables don't last for ever, but they have to be in good condition (no fraying!). I recently had one made - it was quite expensive and only just fitted. The cables are not easy to lubricate - the makers suggested soaking the whole cable in a bath of oil from time to time.

    Brake blocks. Again there are at least two sizes, necessary because of the limited adjustment. Modern blocks can be made to fit the shoes, but the original blocks were angled upwards from the shoe which means that it's difficult to get modern replacements at the correct angle to the rim's braking area. A few original blocks can still be found, but since they must be at least sixty years old, they seem to me to be too hard to work ar their best.

    In a nutshell: if the factory still existed to provide service these brakes would be fine - unfortunately now you're on your own!

    The bolt in the fork crown is for the mudguard.

    If you're having any work done on this frame don't forget to repair the damaged mudguard stay mounting on the r/h seatstay. As you know, I would remove the lamp bracket boss.

    I would expect this frame to ride well and be the basis for excellent machine - good luck with it.


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