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  • From Batumi we took a ferry to Odessa, Ukraine. Had a quick look at the beaches and rode out to Moldova. We entered through Transistria, a Russian separatist territory that attracts tourists fetishising about this sort of thing. Tiraspol, the capital, is a small town with little going for it so we just carried on to Moldova proper. Roads were much worse than in Transistria, but the further West we went the nicer it got, especially near the Romanian border.

    Crossing to Romania and entering the EU was quite a moment. From here onwards our passports weren’t getting stamped anymore, it felt like we were almost home. Iasi was our first stop, a pleasant and wealthy city. The landscape around it was just large-scale corn farming, a bit boring to ride through (especially on some very busy main roads). Thankfully after a couple of days we started getting near the Carpathian range, and we had some amazing days around this area. The Bicaz Gorge is one of the most beautiful stretches of road we’ve ever been to. Cluj was also very nice, and we got the feeling that there was much more to be explored that we didn’t manage to cover. I’d love to go back.


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