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Yeah at time of buying couldn’t justify having a gun. Trying to weigh up the future use but I might as well get one now.
The strips look like a good idea. No mess neither. I assume you cut to length and stuff in gap?
Here are some pictures (excuse the poor finish of my lining
You can see the black mould - so at the moment I’m trying to elimate issues with the windows. Downstairs bay is much worst is terms of area of cover. But upstairs could do with taking out and insulating so another project to do on my list. Plus the double glazing is probably quite old. There’s no trickle vents on them and some of the vent for the chimney was wallpapered over which I’ve opened up and fitted a vent cover.
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musa
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I've been swapping out my various sealants to CT1 recently.
Expensive per tube, but it's saving the need for a couple of different ones.
Easy to work with and sticks well -
Several different products you can use to for gaps between different substrates. I use Toupret Fibacryl on top of a normal hard filler with foam strips backing that in larger gaps.
There's not one answer to your question and if you have a big box of materials to choose from you can get great results. A simple answer is caulk though, it shouldn't need to be waterproof but as you point out there's condensation around window areas.
I've found over time that very little works for more than a few years. Fibacryl on the specialised scrim works very well on skirting, especially stair skirting but it's a bitch to apply.
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@Airhead and @user69121 have some good advice.
I'd also add that I'm not sure insulating / sealing round the windows will solve all your issues those units seem to have been very poorly insulated or installed.
Take the third picture you posted for example I would imagine that you have condensation forming up and down that middle trim piece between the two glazing units. It may be that you need to get the units replaced and properly installed to completely solve the problem, I realise that this is probably not what you want to hear, but bear in mind a good local supplier will normally come in much cheaper than the national guys like Everest.
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I think a lot of that it just old and mucky as opposed to mouldy.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-upvc-cleaner-1ltr/86575
Or just hot soapy water, a paint brush to get into the corners and microfiber cloth should have the frames looking much cleaner.
A sharp scraper should take off the old sealant. The quarter round beading along the sill will probably pull away with the scraper behind it, which would make prepping the sill easier.Reseal any sections on the outside where the silicone has split or coming away.
I wouldn't bother trying to take the glass out unless you need to replace the double glazed unit.
Being as they are glazed from the outside, I'd expect the beads to be security locking.
Where you remove the internal wedge gasket, push the glass inwards which allows the beads to unlock. Being as there's no wedge gasket visible between the glass and inner frame, your glass is retained with double sided security tape.
user69121
Airhead
Bobbo
Post some pictures.
The one thing I would say is if you're using expanding foam a gun makes it much more controllable than using the cans with triggers. Also this expanding foam tape is better than the foam I find, I do realise it's probably too late.