Two days down, one to go. Sadly I haven't made it to the Berneray hostel this time, but can confirm the Leverburgh Bunkhouse is clean, comfortable, warm and well-equipped.
The last two days have been great. Friday was just the kind of unbelievable magic day that almost never happens. Bright sunshine. Properly warm and sunny, and the views around Barra were like nothing I've seen. The ferry arrived about 6:30pm, I had a short 30km spin around the southern end of the chain to knock off the miles, and arrived at my bunkhouse a bit after 8pm.
Today's been harder. I had assumed that heading South to North would mean tailwinds for most of the time. Not the case today. I took the first ferry from Ardmhor (0700), and was glad I had. It meant I could afford the time for detours/sightseeing /general bimbling, rather than feeling as though I had to smash it into a headwind just to make the last ferry to Harris.
And there's the rub. In a sense I've been hoist by my own petard here. I had to get to Harris tonight, as tomorrow is a big day (200km), and I am short of the form I would need to do it easily. The plan was always to start early at Leverburgh and finish late at Stornoway. If I were planning this again I wouldn't plan to do the whole of Harris and Lewis on a Sunday. Nothing is open. Nothing. So I've bought what I can from Leverburgh Co-op, and will make up some falafel pitta for the road. The good news is, the wind looks like it might be less unhelpful, there's a bail out point at the Callanish stones, and I understand from my bunkmates that the far northern end is not the absolute highlight in terms of riding, scenery or sights. So let's see.
Anyway, here's the last two days:
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