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  • So, Estonia is a bit good:

    Tallinn - lovely old town, great architecture, quite sleepy - glad we were only there for a night and leaving early on Friday morning, as the beer for breakfast Brits stag brigade were already getting on it. Wouldn't fancy it at the weekend.

    Shedloads of cyclists in Tallinn, boku slvlss (they've got an Ironman there now), but not a single one to be seen once out of Tallinn. Roads are mainly very good, with the very odd little patch of unsurfaced stuff on the islands. In the rural areas, you'll see a car once every 10-15 minutes, and they'll universally give you plenty of space. Not a single car horn or close pass the whole time. Pretty much all you hear is constant birdsong.

    Navigation is a piece of piss - get on the Eurovelo route, stay on it for a week or so, then hang a left for Vilnius.

    The ferries out to and between the islands are cheap, quick, efficient and have reasonable food, even for vegans if you ask nicely.

    Weather - we got ridiculously lucky. Apparently it's usually about 10 degrees max at this time of year, so temps hitting the mid-20s much of the time were bigly flukey. It still went down to subzero at nights though - it was hard to sleep because of the cold. We were certainly the only people camping at this time of year, and it was really hard to sleep for the first few nights.

    The Estonians have camping sorted out - every few kms, there's a site - just a long drop toilet, fire grate and logs, but that's all you need. And it's free (you may have to pay later in the season, but there's no-one around now). Running water would have been nice, but we got by with swimming in the Baltic, which isn't at all salty.

    The Baltic is still quite cold.

    Food is surprisingly (to the ignorant tourer) good, even for weirdo vegans. In some places, where they had no English, I'd virtuously order potato dunplings and they'd come with a knob of butter, but that's hardly the end of the world. Most places had pasta and other types of options.

    It is very flat, you could easily tour fixeh skiddereh if you wanted. We didn't go crazy and maxed out about 140kms a day - you could easily do plenty more if you were so inclined (and much fitter than me). There are plenty of shops for essentials.

    Almost every place you go is obscenely pretty - little wooden houses with sheds and saunas in the gardens, old churches, streams and trees. You see very little that screams of Soviet brutalism, though the flats in the suburbs can be a bit grim. Nothing worse than Tower Hamlets though.

    Wildlife spotted - couple of reindeer, couple of (grass) snakes, frogs and toads, huge numbers of birds. jillions of ladybirds.

  • Sounds wonderful! "Very flat" pleases me. Going to pitch Estonia as part of the next cycle tour.

    Kudos for swimming in the sea in April.


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