It depends if you want to re-use the crank afterwards.
If you do, DO NOT HEAT IT!
The alloy that Campag use is heat-treated at around 150 deg C post-manufacture - heating to a degree where it'll help yo to remove the crank will destroy the properties that heat treatment gives and may cause embrittlement.
The best / lowest cost route is a Facon U301 bearing puller (specifically, not just any bearing puller), a cap to close off the open end of the BB axle and a shield or method of protecting the back of the crank - that, you can cut from a medium thickness card ...
The Park tool has an occasional failure mode that the Facpm puller doesn't suffer from, so we don't recommend it.
If it's a one-off, or just a once every two to three years job, any Campagnolo ProShop should have the tools to help you - they are going to charge, it's true - but that costs of getting it done on a one-time or occasional basis are probably going to be less than investing in the tools.
It depends if you want to re-use the crank afterwards.
If you do, DO NOT HEAT IT!
The alloy that Campag use is heat-treated at around 150 deg C post-manufacture - heating to a degree where it'll help yo to remove the crank will destroy the properties that heat treatment gives and may cause embrittlement.
The best / lowest cost route is a Facon U301 bearing puller (specifically, not just any bearing puller), a cap to close off the open end of the BB axle and a shield or method of protecting the back of the crank - that, you can cut from a medium thickness card ...
The Park tool has an occasional failure mode that the Facpm puller doesn't suffer from, so we don't recommend it.
If it's a one-off, or just a once every two to three years job, any Campagnolo ProShop should have the tools to help you - they are going to charge, it's true - but that costs of getting it done on a one-time or occasional basis are probably going to be less than investing in the tools.