Colombia, not Columbia

Boxing Day
We are woken by the sound of heavy road trucks on route 90 to / from Riohaca. Breakfast was great, we are based 200 metres from the park entrance and manage to get in by 0830. Tayrona is one of Colombia’s best visitor destinations, okay it is touristy but the trails are extensive. The PNN formed in 1965 has many national parks across the country and has been very successful in conservation and heritage projects for indigenous tribes. Once in the Park have a choice of hiking or hiring a horse with guide. Cars are banned except for park ranger access. We are a party of 12, but only 2 of our group have ever been inside this National Park before. We also have three niños under 10, so this will be a very interesting quest to reach the beach suitable for swimming. Once the cars were parked we set off on foot into the jungle following the main trail towards the wild and rugged coast. Sticks were found and purposed as waking staffs and everyone wanting to be Gandalf. Within 20 minutes, it looked like we were in the middle of a Predator film set, complete with jungle canopy, large flat ribbon vines suspended in every directions, flooded streams, large blade like tree roots typical in swampy environments, fallen palm trees and microscopic highways of insect life with leaf cutter ants busy crossing our trail many times. Our route was well signposted with a mixture of board walks, stone steps, sandy paths and muddy hollows left from the rain in recent weeks. The temperature was pleasant but the trail challenging especially in flip-flops, as our path twist and turned with every climb and descent. 40 minutes in and we reached the coast. There is little development in Tayrona, just a collection of ecohabs dwellings, campsites but also a pueblito for the local indigenous folk who meet every couple of weeks to discuss important issues with the tribe elders and leader. The park is kept clear of rubbish and it felt a world away from civilisation. In the odd clearing we found Arawak Indians selling drinks, freshly cut coconuts and ethnic souvenirs. Occasionally a group of horse riders would trot past. However our trek never felt crowded. Once we reached the Arrecifes, the true wonder of Tayrona became apparent. We were now walking through those advertising images that give Colombia that wonderful appeal of a lost unspoilt paradise. This must have been the first sights the European sea explorers would have witnessed over 500 years ago. After 90 minutes of hiking we reached Las Piscinas perfect for bathing. The Atlantic surf held back at the reef of this cove. The wet sand on the beach had a lot of bright copper coloured minerals that sparkled in the sunlight along with a sprinkling of salt and pepper grains. I’m told that the beach really worth seeing is Playa Cristal but to get there is via a different park entrance and definately for another day. The Park closes at 5pm and it had been a long day. I reckon we walked 16 Km off road, not bad for the young ones among us. Everyone slept really well after dinner, more insect repellent to combat the sand flies and ticks.

http://www.parquesnacionales.gov.co/portal/en/ecotourism/caribbean-region/tayrona-national-natural-park/

http://seecolombia.travel/blog/2015/07/complete-guide-tayrona/

2 Attachments