-
I agree in principle, but the chainline is hard to get right with a flat chainring. I've modified some Novatec axles to give the required line to go with 5600 cranks. Obviously, I went full tart mode, but the basic hack is to turn the drive side aluminium nut down to about half its original thickness and add a corresponding spacer between the aluminium nut and the bearing on the NDS. If you're using it on the track, you'll probably have to trim the axle a bit as it will poke out of the drive side track nut. The 120mm axle is probably long enough not to cause track nut engagement issues on the NDS with a steel frame, but you can get a 130mm axle if you need to.
Hmm.....maybe i can get away with a 3/32" ring, without hacking the hub.
elHuron-
maybe i can get away with a 3/32" ring, without hacking the hub
It's too far out to be comfortable, outer ring chainline is about 47mm and typical track hubs are 42. If you use the inner position, it's about 39mm which is closer but still further off than you'd want. The Pro option is one of the dished USE rings, but they're £100+
-
You could go the full Velosolo route and re-space an XT M756 front disc hub to use as a rear, and shim a bolt-on sprocket to suit front chainline. Won't be low flange at the rear, but for the front, could then polish a front XT M753 (non disc, low flange, not bulbous like the M750) hub to match.
EDIT - scrap the M753 idea - has bespoke aluminium axles, so probably difficult to fit your own solid axle. Revert to HB-M750. Probably all-round simpler/less faff to change crank.
-
ild say neoretro wouldnt work aesthetically with that kind of old frame.
also, finding a 110bcd track ring could prove a pain.
ild say save the hassle and get a square taper crankset. shaved road could save you some pennies
gbj_tester
Lukas
Rodolfo
I agree in principle, but the chainline is hard to get right with a flat chainring. I've modified some Novatec axles to give the required line to go with 5600 cranks. Obviously, I went full tart mode, but the basic hack is to turn the drive side aluminium nut down to about half its original thickness and add a corresponding spacer between the aluminium nut and the bearing on the NDS. If you're using it on the track, you'll probably have to trim the axle a bit as it will poke out of the drive side track nut. The 120mm axle is probably long enough not to cause track nut engagement issues on the NDS with a steel frame, but you can get a 130mm axle if you need to.
