Thailand +..

Avoided all of that and had an unbelievable time. It really is an incredible country without even trying very hard to avoid the tourist traps. Seriously, at times all you have to do is turn a corner and bam...you're off the beaten path.
Didn't even bother going south, which deserves time in itself. If I wanted to drink myself stupid, I've got a tesco down the road.
This might seem harsh, but I'm not even sure how people do the whole SE Asia region in a few months. There's just too much to explore in one country alone.
@cybernck I hung around mostly north. If you take a bike, you'll find roads that will look like they were ironed out by god out of the sides of mountains.