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I'd also go for 3/32 rather than 1/8 drive train as it will be lighter. There isn't really much benefit to a 1/8 drive chain except for ease compatibility, which probably only matters if you ride track. Also work out your rato and choose lower size cogs and chainrings to save weight.
I've just gone 3/32" after this was discussed in relation to hill climb bikes: seems everyone uses 1/8", because... er, everyone has always used 1/8"...
Although smaller sprockets will be lighter, I'd argue the fairly modest weight saving is not worth it in comparison to the considerable improvement in efficiency of larger sprockets.
Scilly.Suffolk
^ the pro 4 in 25mm come up as 28mm in real life.
As geeky as it sounds the best way to drop weight is with a spreadsheet of components and weights and price with a price per gram column. This will help you see where the best weight savings are. Also remember that manufacturer listed weights often aren't accurate and you can add 10-15% if the manufacturer is Italian.
Road cranks with a single speed chairing are likely to be lighter than track ones. I'd go for shimano 5700 as they're cheap at the moment and are stiff. But second hand Sram red cranks will probably be a bit lighter - check weight weenies listing.
I'd also go for 3/32 rather than 1/8 drive train as it will be lighter. There isn't really much benefit to a 1/8 drive chain except for ease compatibility, which probably only matters if you ride track. Also work out your rato and choose lower size cogs and chainrings to save weight.
If you want to save costs I'd go for cheaper hubs, light novatec. Also if you're running discs + fixed choose 29'er rims as they'll be significantly lighter than the h-sons.... and TBH you'd be better off spending more on the rims and less on hubs imo.