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Old 25th May 2013   #78651
bmxed
 
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I prefer the Thomson.
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Old 25th May 2013   #78652
aroseisaroseisdonor
Reach shouldn't be a problem, I've been cursed with shortish legs/long upper body and feel like the saddle could be set a few cm further back than the thomson allows.
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Old 25th May 2013   #78653
mdcc_testerdonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BasJansen View Post
*Except for tester, cuz he called me fat.
My expertise in preventing seat post slippage was hard won at the dinner table :-)
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Old 25th May 2013   #78654
miro_odonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxed View Post
I prefer the Thomson.
+1

It looks like a printed (not-panto'ed) kalloy campag ripoff.
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Old 25th May 2013   #78655
mdcc_testerdonor
 
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The Kalloy SP248 which copies the C-Record clamping mechanism is actually nicer than that Vitus thing, and it's available in 25.0
http://www.amazon.de/Patent-Sattelst...666297-5810555
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Old 25th May 2013   #78656
miro_odonor
 
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I have one on my everyday bike. I agree they're fine.

I have the Kalloy campag/aero type in a box somewhere. It works ok and looks ok but is pretty heavy.
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Old 26th May 2013   #78657
aroseisaroseisdonor
Thanks for the heads-up, I've been actually eyeing the kalloy once I started collecting bits but found the thomson locally and couldn't pass up. Either way, I've been toying with the idea of gradually changing bits and sods to c-record, so I suppose neither the kalloy, nor the vitus will do in the long run..sigh*breaks piggy-bank*
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Old 26th May 2013   #78658
edscobledonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miro_o View Post
I have the Kalloy campag/aero type in a box somewhere. It works ok and looks ok but is pretty heavy.
Cut it in half! easiest solution (I did that with the uber-long Nitto seatpost on a bicycle that doesn't have a lots showing).
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Old 26th May 2013   #78659
ncjlee
 
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^ I'm about to do this, how much length of post needs to be left to insert into the seattube?
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Old 26th May 2013   #78660
Tennersdonor
 
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Just measure the minimum insertion, put it in the frame at the right height, add a band of tape just above the clamp, then remove and cut exactly the minimum insertion below the line of tape.
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Old 26th May 2013   #78661
ncjlee
 
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Cheers. Sounds obvious once it's pointed out...
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Old 26th May 2013   #78662
mdcc_testerdonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncjlee View Post
^ I'm about to do this, how much length of post needs to be left to insert into the seattube?
Whichever is greater out of 50mm/2" and ¼ of the total seat post length, and disregard any seat tube extension above the top tube.
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Old 26th May 2013   #78663
ncjlee
 
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Thanks also. By 1/4 of the length do you mean that 1/4 is inserted and 3/4 is showing, or that the inserted section is 1/4 of the length of the sticking out bit (i.e. 4/5 showing and 1/5 inserted)?
P.S. how do you get fractions to go nice?
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Old 26th May 2013   #78664
mdcc_testerdonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncjlee View Post
¼ is inserted and ¾ is showing
↑This

Quote:
Originally Posted by ncjlee View Post
P.S. how do you get fractions to go nice?
Unicode
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of...s#Number_Forms
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Old 26th May 2013   #78665
Ordinata
 
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Stick with Thompson, superior in looks and clamp. Used both, kalloy failed.
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Old 26th May 2013   #78666
mdcc_testerdonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ordinata View Post
Used both, kalloy failed.
Which Kalloy? There are dozens of different models, never had any trouble with the SP-248 (or any of the others, for that matter)
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Old 26th May 2013   #78667
Sugar Ray Harold


Been riding around on this old leader frame swapped out the saddle for an Arione
and grabbed some new bar tape and tyre's, shud hold out for a while could do with
a decent crankset as well tbh. The badger did 40miles today plenty of whip skids.
  quote   reply
Old 26th May 2013   #78668
miro_odonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miro_o View Post
I have the Kalloy campag/aero type in a box somewhere. It works ok and looks ok but is pretty heavy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by edscoble View Post
Cut it in half! easiest solution (I did that with the uber-long Nitto seatpost on a bicycle that doesn't have a lots showing).
Then I could fit it in a smaller box! Cheers Ed.
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Old 26th May 2013   #78669
1000archangels
 
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lol
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Old 26th May 2013   #78670
Ordinata
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdcc_tester View Post
Which Kalloy? There are dozens of different models, never had any trouble with the SP-248 (or any of the others, for that matter)
Flawed design. The slug eventually wears to the point that the teeth slip and clamp rotates. The clamp should not be sat on a curve in the first place.
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Old 26th May 2013   #78671
Sveinungdonor
New wheels (and king cages) on the Pinarello:



Front is alternative to Zipp (built it after breaking two spokes in a week and having only one spare), but I quite like the skinny look (rim is CX18).
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Old 26th May 2013   #78672
edscobledonor
 
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^^ Only if you constantly adjusted the saddle position regularly a la Skirt Love.
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Old 26th May 2013   #78673
rogandonor
 
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Just came across this and having wild ideas for an upgrade to my Alan...

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Old 26th May 2013   #78674
Fixedwheelnutdonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sveinung View Post
New wheels (and king cages) on the Pinarello:



Front is alternative to Zipp (built it after breaking two spokes in a week and having only one spare), but I quite like the skinny look (rim is CX18).
^^ that is beauty on wheels ^^
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Old 26th May 2013   #78675
Sveinungdonor
Much obliged :)
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Old 26th May 2013   #78676
Ordinata
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edscoble View Post
^^ Only if you constantly adjusted the saddle position regularly a la Skirt Love.
Thompson has a much larger meshing surface area plus 2 bolts for stability. No argument.
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Old 26th May 2013   #78677
B0N0Rdonor
 
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My thomson has slipped and moves over time but my BBB £10 seatpost never did. sue me
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Old 26th May 2013   #78678
Ordinata
 
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Must be because it's a layback. :-S
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Old 26th May 2013   #78679
mdcc_testerdonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ordinata View Post
Flawed design. The slug eventually wears to the point that the teeth slip and clamp rotates. The clamp should not be sat on a curve in the first place.
The SP-248 doesn't have teeth, it has a bi-conical interface like a C-Record. You must be thinking of a different Kalloy model.
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Old 27th May 2013   #78680
Ordinata
 
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Conical or not, the point remains the clamp head should not be sat on a polished curve with a single bolt. I thought bind was nurled (teeth) Still, monumentally shit. B-)
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Old 27th May 2013   #78681
whatok
 
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A seatpost is a stick.
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Old 27th May 2013   #78682
O'Shane
 
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Old 27th May 2013   #78683
whatok
 
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see
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Old 27th May 2013   #78684
Mechamorgan
 
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I just snapped the seatpost collar on one of my bikes in the exact same way as repeated on the last page. What are the fucking chances?

What causes that kind of failure? Over-torquing the bolt?
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Old 27th May 2013   #78685
mdcc_testerdonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechamorgan View Post
What causes that kind of failure?
Poor design. A seatpost collar which has significant bending stiffness is a failure of design, the optimal design has infinite tensile stiffness and no bending stiffness, the closer you get to that the better.
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Old 27th May 2013   #78686
ewanmacdonor
 
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Where is a good online resource to read/learn about bike fit?

Specifically, I'm very comfy on both my fixed and my TTrace bike, but I consistently find the fit of my road bike uncomfortable. I can't afford a bike fit right now, but I'd at least like to learn a little bit about the fundamentals so that I'm not shooting completely in the dark.
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Old 27th May 2013   #78687
mdcc_testerdonor
 
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A tape measure should sort you out, just set up the road bike identically to the fixed bike. I think if you're any any issues related to fit, you can't afford not to have it attended to professionally, it's a better investment than any other bike related purchase and often cheaper than blindly experimenting.
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Old 27th May 2013   #78688
ewanmacdonor
 
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yeah, I know it's best to get a fit done but (a) I don't have the cash right now, no matter how much I may want to and (b) I'd also simply just like to learn a bit more about it - for instance, what would the implications for comfort and handling be if you place the rider either further forward or further backward on the bike.

My fixed is comfy and although I've done long rides on it, it is mainly my commuter and the fit is very relaxed. During my last attempt at tinkering with fit, I tried to replicate my TT position on the road bike but this resulted in the saddle position (and thus my weight) being very far forward, but oddly I also fee quite stretched out as well. This is the most comfortable guise that I've had it in but the handling always felt a bit funky (especially on the descents).

True to your wisdom, my last bout of tinkering made everything worse, but still I'd be interested to understand more - even if I do go for a fit when I have the cash.
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Old 28th May 2013   #78690
edscobledonor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewanmac View Post
yeah, I know it's best to get a fit done but (a) I don't have the cash right now, no matter how much I may want to and (b) I'd also simply just like to learn a bit more about it - for instance, what would the implications for comfort and handling be if you place the rider either further forward or further backward on the bike.
Do you have a spirit levels or have access to one? while measuring tape is great, the spirit levels make it a lots easier to make sure your saddle have the right setback as your other bicycle as well as the saddle/bar drop.

But mdcc_tester's right, the bike fitting service is worthwhile in the long term, especially when they will give you the fit sheet to allowed you to replicated the set-up on a new bicycle, and probably can explain the fit better than most of us.
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Old 28th May 2013   #78691
b3ans12345
Been lurking these forums for a better part of a few years now, thought I might post my bike.

  quote   reply
Old 28th May 2013   #78692
Ndeipidonor
Quote:
Originally Posted by ewanmac View Post
yeah, I know it's best to get a fit done but
I used the fit calculator at Competitive Cyclist. It's takes a load of detailed measurements from your anatomy, spits out a few options for you to try.
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Old 28th May 2013   #78693
Thrustdonor
 
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Would a trackbike with a deep drop be more triathlon than road in that bike fit calc?
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Old 28th May 2013   #78694
Aches and pains
Quote:
Originally Posted by b3ans12345 View Post
Been lurking these forums for a better part of a few years now, thought I might post my bike.
Very nice!
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Old 28th May 2013   #78695
edscobledonor
 
edscoble's Avatar
Dent on the modified Tokyo Fixed Dream Machine is too big to fill in and need the top tube to be replaced.

It's retired to the shed until I can afford to replace the top tube, and the Kogswell replace it as the audax/tourer, perhaps even outshine it.

Nearly done, just brought it home during lunch break, just need the 19t Phils cogs, cheap chain and uber-long reach brakes (finally!) with enough room for mudguard and my beloved Grand Bois 32mm tyres.

Geometry on paper look great, slack 72 degree ST mean inline seatpost with Brooks (need to fish out the Thomson I have lying around), and 74 degree HT with 44mm of rake, very low bottom bracket, extended headtube (identical to the Tokyo Fixed now) and internal rear brake routing.

I forget how easy and quick it is to build up a fixed wheel bicycle, probably less than half an hour.

Attached Thumbnails
imag0735_zps7741da58.jpg  
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Old 28th May 2013   #78696
spotterdonor
 
spotter's Avatar
I've got some brakes if you like ed. They're silver, dual piviot and cheap
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Old 28th May 2013   #78697
Aches and pains
From frame to ride-able, less than 10 minutes for the Vivalo
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Old 28th May 2013   #78698
edscobledonor
 
edscoble's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by spotter View Post
I've got some brakes if you like ed. They're silver, dual piviot and cheap
Even the Shimano long reach was just about reach the braking surface but too risky due to the likeihood of the pads wearing in and touching the tyres, I need at least 58-59mm drop, so the Tektro R559 will have to do (unless that's what you have).
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Old 28th May 2013   #78699
spotterdonor
 
spotter's Avatar
they're 52–72mm
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Old 28th May 2013   #78700
edscobledonor
 
edscoble's Avatar
Excellent, pm me price and type of animal to sacrificed.
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