| | #1 |
| | Wanted: Locknut for rear hub One of my rear hub locknuts exploded last night. Its an Airlite track. I did something a bit silly ... hadn't noticed that it need adjusting (cone and lock nut had a gap in between) so my track nut was applying pressure just onto the locknut ... crumble crumble ... oops. Anyone got a hub that uses that type of axle thats broken that I can take a locknut off? Or know how to find a new locknut? Not sure exaclty what thread/axle diameter it is, so if anyone can furnish me with that detail it'd be much appreciated too. Ta. |
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| | #3 |
| | No, not necessarily. British-made hubs of this era, certainly, have a smaller diameter front axle, and tended to be spaced 2mm narrower - I think the tpi may well be almost always the same. I'm not certain about the rear ones ... though I'm hoping you're right in this case. I'd really appreciate anyone with a good tip for a shop with lots of bits hiding away. |
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| | #4 |
| | don't know much about airlite, but if they were british then it is probably 24tpi which was the british standard in use except by raleigh who were 26tpi depnding on your axle diameter, these might work? http://www.mx1.co.uk/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=18797 |
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| | #7 |
| | I've got the same problem - took my rear wheel off yesterday eve and the locknut had split in half. It's from a large flange campag pista. Is there any crazy threading to worry about or can I just order one off the interwebz? SJS have sturmey archer ones but I've no idea if they'll fit..... |
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| | #8 |
| | Motor cycles jumbles might well have a nut and bolt supplier. I was at one recently and there were 2 stands with British Standard Cycle Thread nuts and bolts in Stainless steel or non stainless steel. not a lot of use to the person starting this thread but one to remember. On another topic one of the best penetrating fluids is diesel fuel. |
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| | #11 |
| | I had a cracked locknut on my system x rear hub, for which I could not source a replacement. My workaround was to buy a new pair of solid flanged hub nuts (couple of quid from ebay), then angle-grind them down to the same thickness as the cracked locknut. Or if you are already using spacers, then remove spacers and add the spacer thickness. Best way to hold them whilst grinding, is to screw them onto axle thread and metal-grind squarely. Lots of sparks, but worked for me, and they are much stronger than original. Keep solid flange side towards dropouts for final fitting. Last edited by xroads; 20th September 2012 at 14:12. |
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