London Fixed-gear and Single-speed

So the lock is tough as fuck but the way it's mounted is tits.

Seems like it would be good protection against opportunists. Coupled with a nice fat D-lock, I reckon (purely subjective opinion based solely on a video seen whilst moderately pissed on a few ales) it's probably a good one. In any case it's always there as an extra piece of security, and on a nice old boneshaker where extra weight isn't a hassle it seems like a worthwhile extra.

Purely my own opinion though. There may well be others who dispute this. When I was in Holland for a while a friend of mine broke a key off in a similar lock, which apparently is quite a common occurrence.

Connected? I struggle with keys after a few beers, but staying on the bike has never been a problem.

Just got an evolution series 4 and it looks pretty good. I am a bit pissed off that it doesn't fit into my frame though, which will mean I can't use the bracket.
I have seen a few pics and also read advice to put a cable through the front wheel to stop it being stolen - I also lock my bike in a place where I can lock this to a railing along with the u lock.
My question is - is it better to hook this onto the u lock or use a separate padlock. I doubt anybody is going to cut a cable to steal my wheel, but if I use a separate lock I assume they will need an extra pair of cable cutters along with whatever they cut the u lock with in order to walk off with the bike.
Am I right or is it better to use the evolution to secure the cable as the padlock is probably not as strong.

It happens.

but if I'm right, forget the cables - if you mean one of those protected ones with orange bits around each end. They are like butter for cable cutters - it happened to me. Just get a second decent chain lock if you want to park outside.

both can be cut using 36" boltcropper.

happy days.

Which is why the first post of this thread clearly labels them as substitute security.

Quote:

Armoured Cable Locks: (substitute security, NOT primary security)

I'd only recommend them to couriers, or people that can check on their bike every few minutes. For "proper" security, I only recommend U-locks with bar diameters of 16mm or greater, or chains with link thickness of 16mm or greater. There is one exception to that rule, but I'm not going to restate it. It should be well known by now.

Yeah dudes read the fucking thread, AIGHT!?

2x Fahg FTW.

I am aware that the cable is not a particularly secure method, but I am only using it as a secondary and was wondering about the difference between locking it separately vs. linking it to the u lock.
My bike is not worth spending so much extra on a really good chain and as I ride around the city lots and I don't want to carry too much extra weight. In any case 80% of the bike I lock up next to use particularly stupid locking methods(round the seatpost, through quickrelease whells etc.) so I doubt mine will be the first target!

It makes no difference. At all. I use a steeloflex 1000 for the front wheel and a fahg mini for the frame/rear wheel. Wether or not you loop the steal-o-flex through the D-lock, it all looks the same to a pair of bolt cutters. Generally, people wont cut through a massive cable lock just for a wheel but it does happen.

When I worked at cycle surgery in Camden, we'd get a lot of people that had their brake pads, grips and sometimes even their brake cables nicked. It totally depends on how desperate the thief is.

I highly recommend using something called Tynan Paste to reduce the risk of these smaller parts being taken.

I would say it makes a difference. If you connect the ends of a cable with the u-lock, you effectively only have one lock. If you connect the ends of a cable with a small padlock lock and have it go through your front wheel, saddle, frame, and then secure post, then you have two effective locks (along with the separate u-lock). of course, a cable is weak, but that makes the thief need two tools -- bolt cutters will not go through a higher end u-lock and leverage attacks will not work against the cable.

nothing is theft-proof; all one can do it make theft more difficult. and having two separate and different kinds of locking systems certainly makes things more difficult.

if an angle-grinder is used, then nothing is safe...but that is true with any other locking system.

I personally use a fahg mini u-lock, a kryponite cable and abus square padlock, pitlock instead of QR on front wheel. for extra security situations, I add a kryponite evo mini.

Did you ever find a shop that sells those Xena locks? They be purty...

FYI
Simpson's has a sale on Krypto locks:
Fahg mini: 69.99
New York std: 59.99

£52

£49

icefall, do you work for Simpson's? These prices you've highlighted are significantly more expensive than those quoted in the list (page 1 of this thread), and as shown directly below your post. If you don't work for Simpsons then your searches need to be sharpened, but if you do work for them, its a bit of bad form....to advertise very expensive products on here, where the alternatives are so much cheaper.

Well done TomBurtonArt.

A locking challenge for you: "How to lock a Pashley Guvnor? ..."

Am I missing something obvious?

Finally ordered a Fahg from Amazon. Will be nice to have peace of mind about my bike for once.

I hate leaving my bike anywhere, even with a fahg and another chain lock. I bought the fahg for peace of mind, but I read this thread and my mouth goes dry.

Plus all those dismembered bikes. Nightmares.

Does anyone have any htfu pills?

No-one on this forum has had a bike stolen when using a Fahg Mini, locked properly to an immovable object.

In fact, no-one has either had their bike stolen when using a u-lock of 16mm or thicker....when properly locked to an immovable object.

People have had bikes stolen with Fahg Minis, but when quite badly locked.... ie. not attached to anything else.

so overall they are worth the money..

^ Definitely.

do i feel like a twat..

So I bought myself a fagh mini due to it being indestructible.

And it dont fit :/
-Ive got deep Dodici rims (powdercoated white obv.) and i just cant get my frame + a wheel locked to a freaking pole..
-cant lock any standard commuter bike
-obv cant lock my mountain bike
:(

so word of advice to yall (though im sure anybody else would check this before buyin anything...) : meassure the distance to cover between the inside of your rim and the inside of your frame..


PS: anyone near Antwerp, Belgium looking for a fagh to buy?? Ill delliver at your home.. :)

Niels, sell it on here, and choose another lock from the list on page 1. Sorry that it didn't fit. Another forumenger was just contemplating the same problem with his Pashley. You're not alone.

selling it wont be a problem (amazon even wants to refund) but ill obv. have to pay the shipping cost. Still got to check with my postal office how much that 2.5 kg accros the channel package is going to cost me :/

unless you're strapped for cash, keep it. it's a good lock, and you can never have too many of those.

Just got my Fahg and really impressed with it. Feels amazingly sturdy, and weighs a tonne! Don't understand how people can keep these on their belt.

belt? I just use those strap that attach to my belt, doesn't bother me after getting used to it.

also I just put it on the bike or my bag instead.

good to know. Just paranoid. I think I always lock well (down tube, imm. object, wheel + chain lock) but still have worries.

where do you get one of these puppies? had a quick search but came up trumps.

i don't understand how people complain about their weight, it really ain't that much. htfu!

http://www.fabrichorse.com/index.php?page=lockholsters
I wasn't really complaining about the weight as I put it in my bag anyway. I just don't understand how it doesn't pull down your trousers while on your belt.

cheers

sumo, unless you have as much arse as mick jagger and/or a loose belt, it's hardly likely to happen.

yes it's the fabric horse one, simple but work brilliantly.

bollocks.

My gf won a lock holster, but neither of us could work out what it was for... Wasn't until the tweed run we saw one being used and figured it out. I've since been considering getting a mini fag thingy to use it with, but don't think it'd sit well on my skinny ginger ass.

Useful thread btw.

For $5 more she'll sew an extra holster on to the belt, so if you have two D locks you can carry one on each hip. Don't forget to tell them which locks you have when you order. http://www.fabrichorse.com/index.php?page=lockholsters

Re-Strap also do them for a fraction of the price, from the UK too...
http://www.restrap.co.uk

lulz

Poor Re-Strap: no self-respecting search engine is ever going to index a site that doesn't have any text on it.

I've got H+Son rims, Sheldon Lock it, it'll fit and it's just as secure. Obviously two locks are much better though.

do any of you own the abus granite x plus 54 & chain lock combination?


i'm thinking of buying it but does the chain come with a separate lock? it doesn't have one in the pic, i was thinking of using it to lock the front wheel and frame (if i have to leave it for a long time), and the d lock for the frame and back wheel (usual use)? it's not much more than the d lock on its own (in some cases cheeper) but if it doesn't have a separate lock it seems pretty pointless...

well, i does keep your front wheel from walking off, but it does not much to uppen the secure locking of your bike as a whole. it is much like the one-lock strategy as one needs to cut only once (maybe twice for a gap) to brake the dlock and the chain comes off as well.

think of it as a compromise 1.5-lock strategy. considering the weight of the chain, i'd pack a mini evo instead, or go all the way and get an evo disc lock (motorcycle stuff) or better the ny fagh disc lock to go with the chain.

note that i did not bother to look up the rating and diameters of the pictured locks, they might be inadequate for this thread ... that would make GA2G mad and he'll rightfully posts comments in a serious manner to underline that. ;)

no that is the one lock that is aloud in this thread as its that good (check the top of the page)

good for you, then it's probably just me... again... getting slapped for my advise.

meh!

Sheldon-locking is NOT as secure, but given that its an H+Son rim that being used in that manner, it is more secure that a shallow profile rim. But it definitely is not "as secure" as locking through the seatstays or frame.

Having bought a GRP Superdeals U-Lock from the shop in Peckham (on the recommendation of this thread) about six or seven months ago I have been very pleased with the security and value it represented.

However two nights ago I went to unlock my bike and the whole mechanism was jammed up and it took (literally) twenty minutes of gentle attention to finally get the key to turn properly and release my bike. Now I had found the mechanism a little (for want of a better word) "sticky" a couple of times previously but nothing that took this long and that didn't get sorted with a bit of oil once I got home. Yesterday however while testing/oiling the lock it jammed again and now it really doesn't want to open. Whether it will again after prolonged attention, I don't know, but the fact that this has happened twice in two days and after oil makes me think the lock has to go, I'm not going to risk getting my bike stuck somewhere for the sake of not buying a new lock.

To be honest the lock isn't/wasn't treated especially gently, it gets left outdoors overnight once a week or so and it bounces around on my handlebars everytime I cycle somewhere without a bag (very often), so perhaps this is the lesson, the GRP lock needs to be treated well.

I just thought I'd put this out there and see if anyone else had had similar issues. I would still recommend this lock (treat her gentle) but I thought that sharing this info would be the right thing to do :-)

I've not had any trouble with mine at all. Maybe its rusted inside, from being left outdoors overnight?
I'll keep an eye on mine, but I don't leave my bike outdoors for lengthy periods, so it may be different for me.

Fahg mini + Evo mini seems to be a popular combo, but am I right in thinking a thief would then only need one type of tool to get into this setup (although would hopefully take 'em a fair while)?

Would a Fahg mini + a decent chain be a better bet if double locking? Apologies if this has already been asked... this is a bloody long (but vital) thread to have to get through to see if all points have already been covered. Cheers!

Any chain that can be carried around, can be relatively easily overcome. The chains that just will not be croppable, are impossible to carry for any length of time.

The only reason the Evo Mini isn't in the list on page one, is because it is hand-bolt-croppable. Though in truth, if there are no gaps inbetween the lock and the bike, its then nearly as secure as even the best and most expensive of locks - because its so difficult to reach.

I have spoken against the Sheldon method of locking, but there was one example that I had seen, that is exceptional, and does work. Note the lack of gaps, and how the lock is positioned.

This is extremely intelligent locking. No gaps, and the weaker side is facing away from the side exposed to the pavement....and obscured by the other bike. Very clever. 10/10 for effort, and forethought.

GA2G... out of interest, what's your chosen lock set-up?

Does anyone have anything bad to say about the Squire Urban Paramount?

Looking for an alternative (not primary security of course) to the Mini Evo as although I liked mine, it only needs one cut to disable it while I think the squire needs two.

I should point out that I didn't have any attempted thefts against my mini evo, but this caused me to reconsider:

http://static.lfgss.com/attachments/...kryptomini.jpg

http://www.lfgss.com/thread123-62.html#post1153707