10 years coal mining, 25 years teaching, 10 years Head of Faculty, now retired...
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I've just paid £170 for the annual service for a gas boiler and fire.
That would offset quite a bit of price difference between gas and electric heating - plus all the cost and issues of certification if you're a landlord - right up to the point where your electric heater burns out due to insufficient flow (hot tap not turned on full) which happened more than once at my parent's place...
Roger Dean (Views) was part of the background when I was studying. Most of the common room walls were covered with posters - admittedly this was a time when a triple album sleeve was 4 feet long and a foot high (Yessongs) - something you don't get with a download...
Most brokers have an 'instant quote' link on their websites though you'll need details such as registration number and current mileage possibly. I've recently used Peter James Insurance (peterjamesinsurance.co.uk/) having been thoroughly pissed off by Lexham's couldn't-care-less attitude since they were bought by Ageas.
What impressed me was the on-line quote exactly matched the one over the phone, and the lad who answered the phone was not thrown by odd requirements such as insurance for an unregistered 1950s 'moped' using a bicycle frame number.
Answering the original question, £84 for two mopeds fully comp and unlimited mileage, but then I'm old(ish) and the bikes are older still - no idea for something modern with 'gt' in the name.
The last one I did had notches in the tail to allow it to be broken off to length - pliers or similar might be easier to find than a hacksaw and vise to hold the tail while sawing?
I'm thinking DIY using likely bike tools rather than precision engineering (cost of a coffee versus call out plus an hour)
I'd offer some real-world help (as you did) but Shropshire is probably a bit too far away...
If you've got a replacement lock I'd be tempted to give it a go - especially if you're only changing the barrel. The only tools needed are a suitable screwdriver and possibly a pair of pliers. Google 'yale lock replacement' and see what YouTube suggests - at least take the screws out and cover plate off the existing lock to see if 'call out' plus an hour is worth it ...
Presta valves will lock closed and can be easily cleaned before inflating - schrader valves can
suffer from unseen debris preventing a good seal and so should be used with a dust cap. Some people don't like dust caps...
Sheet 'wood stuff' will need to be quite thick for what you want, otherwise it will bend - that will make it heavy, unwieldy in a confined space, difficult to store when not in use and likely to damage things if not secured when travelling.
Try a google image search for caravan bed slats for inspiration - webbing should be cheap enough, 38x19 timber shouldn't be too expensive from a timber merchant (not B&Q) and a cheap staple gun should cope with softwood.
I've also had intermittent asthma for the last forty years or so - sometimes months without a problem, sometimes needing an inhaler every few hours. FWIW, cats, dogs and exercise in cold air provoke an attack for me, and sometimes moving from cold air to warm & humid (e.g. straight from bike into pub in winter) but a blue inhaler keeps it all manageable. As mentioned above, a pre-exercise puff generally works, and if I don't anticipate sufficiently it just means a few minutes looking at the view instead of pedaling while waiting for Ventolin to do it's thing.
If you have any choice, go for proper Ventolin - generic salbutamol inhalers use the same active ingredient but Ventolin supposedly uses a much finer powder which disperses better and penetrates further.
tl;dr asthma = scary but can usually be managed. Carry inhaler and carry on.
You might know this already...
Printing for exhibition purposes is a slightly different game. Immediately your audience is further away - several paces rather compared with less than arms length - so bigger is generally better, assuming the image is of a suitable quality.
I'd be inclined to scan, photoshop as required (enlargement and cropping at least) and try some variations on hue tone sharpness etc. Print the variations 5x7 / A5 on whatever printer you have access to and then be critical and selective before having expensive 12x18 / A3 prints made.
It might even be worth doing a bit of reading before scanning - much of the logic regarding digital camera settings applies equally to negative scanning, e.g.
Apologies if I'm suggesting the obvious - you can always go to https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/187128/ and complain about condescending old gits.
DIY or someone else doing it for you?
I have a Plustek negative scanner / hp printer and a Gnome Master II / Ilford chemicals - there are advantages to each, but I get more satisfaction from 'them there olden day' processes and mostly I prefer the finished print - balanced against time and convenience and not being (quite) as anti-social. In terms of print quality I really couldn't say...
(Opens the can of worms marked 'Best')