10 years coal mining, 25 years teaching, 10 years Head of Faculty, now retired...
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Not unlike the metallic 'coffee' finish Raleigh used in the 70s ?
I'd be interested to know how a loaded frame-mounted rack changes the handling with small wheels - I didn't like the effects of weight on a fork-mounted rack on my Twenty and soon went back to a rear rack.
A lot of low temperature programs rely on long soak times with occasional agitation - achievable in a bucket where the grubbiest bits can also be attacked with a brush. A long rinse with dilute Jeyes Ibcol or similar should sort anything living in the fabric causing stink. 3-4 hours Stergene, stirring every time I go past / think about it, quick rinse, 3-4 hours Ibcol, drip dry, has sorted stinking canvas shoes and trainers without problems, re-finishing leather bits with Renapur once dry - it also avoids possible issues with buckles damaging the washing machine...
Try phoning the Green Spark Plug Company - they were very helpful when I was looking for an obscure motorbike plug.
Although your part isn't listed on their site, they might be able answer your question or suggest an alternative?
What is the weight difference between a 5 speed external plus derailleur (plus hanger?) and a 3 speed internal hub?
Mrs.E went from hating to not noticing when she went from external gears to Sturmey Archer 3 speed - from cycling occasionally to humor me to wanting to use her bike and not noticing a weight penalty that is a small proportion of the overall weight (bike + rider + handbag)
Stripping and lubricating the hub has come down to about an hour, once a year, regarded as something I do as part of my domestic duties.
Possibly seek an opinion from obligatory girlfriend?
Prepared to pay over the odds for 'I need it now' and someone else's idea of 'ready to ride'? £90 is a joke - £60 is still on the steep side.
I suspect in a few weeks time you'd be working on it and replacing parts to make it more acceptable - if that is the case, I'd look for a lower priced starting point.
Overall length 1450mm (57")
Part of my original thinking was a bike that would do everything and fit in the car without disassembly. However,Mrs. E's elderly Raleigh Twenty (raleightwenty.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=196048688)
-weighs about the same and when folded uses less than half the boot floor - needless to say I've bought one as well
The grey R20 cost £12 from ebay - I've spent on tyres and paint, but recouped more than that by selling the unwanted pedals, brake levers, stand and safety bracket as 'vintage Raleigh, suit Chopper'. If fitting into a coach luggage bay is the main issue, a bit more size and weight than a Brompton might not be a problem, but price (50 Raleigh Twentys to the Brompton?) might be the clincher?
I'd still look at the carb first - quicker and easier, fewer gaskets, fewer tools, and if you find sludge or rust particles you've probably nailed the cause. Removing the head would be next (assuming you can't see anything through the plug hole or exhaust port) knowing what you find will be more likely to be symptoms than a cause.
smellofdeath.com/lloydy/piston_diag_guide.htm and similar (I know, not a Vespa, but similar engineering) might help when peering down dark holes?
You can always blame the ethanol - it used to be quite the thing on NACC runs to blame E5 for all forms of breakdown...
If it was my (elderly) moped it would be sludge or rust particles in the float chamber causing the float to stick with resulting fuel starvation. It does it every now and then because the Amal in-line filter (alloy body, nylon mesh) looks the part but is little more than a strainer: something less period and more effective (with a transparent body and paper element) is needed at some point.
It might be just a blip but it's probably worth looking into - clean the outside of the carb first, have the jets out and remove the top of the float chamber - large particles making their way into the combustion chamber are a bad thing, so if you find anything at all it's definitely time to fit a (better) filter. Hot spots, pre-ignition, holed piston and broken rings are possibilities as well as a scored bore...
Very much a plumbing solution for fastening pipes/tubes to stuff.
Larger diameters tend to look less agricultural - clamp screws are smaller in proportion to the rest of it - and the cast ring is usually more substantial than a P clip.
I'd be thinking about filing the end of the stud to the same angle as the seatpost then silver soldering a cross piece / mounting plate to offer a vertical surface for the light.
I'd also use a locking nut rather than locktite, and possibly replace the allthread by counter-bored 10mm bar threaded at one end only. Eventually it evolves into a seatpost-mounted-saddlebag-support-with-fitting-points-for-a-light, but that's a clumsy name so let's call it a rack for short?