10 years coal mining, 25 years teaching, 10 years Head of Faculty, now retired...
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Sheet 'wood stuff' will need to be quite thick for what you want, otherwise it will bend - that will make it heavy, unwieldy in a confined space, difficult to store when not in use and likely to damage things if not secured when travelling.
Try a google image search for caravan bed slats for inspiration - webbing should be cheap enough, 38x19 timber shouldn't be too expensive from a timber merchant (not B&Q) and a cheap staple gun should cope with softwood.
I've also had intermittent asthma for the last forty years or so - sometimes months without a problem, sometimes needing an inhaler every few hours. FWIW, cats, dogs and exercise in cold air provoke an attack for me, and sometimes moving from cold air to warm & humid (e.g. straight from bike into pub in winter) but a blue inhaler keeps it all manageable. As mentioned above, a pre-exercise puff generally works, and if I don't anticipate sufficiently it just means a few minutes looking at the view instead of pedaling while waiting for Ventolin to do it's thing.
If you have any choice, go for proper Ventolin - generic salbutamol inhalers use the same active ingredient but Ventolin supposedly uses a much finer powder which disperses better and penetrates further.
tl;dr asthma = scary but can usually be managed. Carry inhaler and carry on.
You might know this already...
Printing for exhibition purposes is a slightly different game. Immediately your audience is further away - several paces rather compared with less than arms length - so bigger is generally better, assuming the image is of a suitable quality.
I'd be inclined to scan, photoshop as required (enlargement and cropping at least) and try some variations on hue tone sharpness etc. Print the variations 5x7 / A5 on whatever printer you have access to and then be critical and selective before having expensive 12x18 / A3 prints made.
It might even be worth doing a bit of reading before scanning - much of the logic regarding digital camera settings applies equally to negative scanning, e.g.
Apologies if I'm suggesting the obvious - you can always go to https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/187128/ and complain about condescending old gits.
DIY or someone else doing it for you?
I have a Plustek negative scanner / hp printer and a Gnome Master II / Ilford chemicals - there are advantages to each, but I get more satisfaction from 'them there olden day' processes and mostly I prefer the finished print - balanced against time and convenience and not being (quite) as anti-social. In terms of print quality I really couldn't say...
(Opens the can of worms marked 'Best')
As with most products, fewer processes -> shorter manufacturing time -> lower manufacturing costs. Some will argue against the use of three or four components (badge + rivets) and additional processing of the head tube when a single self adhesive unit will be just as appropriate and not have the visual intrusion of fastenings. There may also be an issue with the clearance required for conventional rivets between the head tube inner and the steerer?
I suspect any weakness introduced by holes for rivets is so marginal that by the time it becomes a problem there will be other significant issues to deal with. However, the Moots badge looks to be screwed on - different game - and the thread root could act as a notch but then we'd have to do maths with k1c values and other incomprehensible shit.
Having said that I've spent unreasonable time making a snap and head tube dolly for rivets turned from aluminium bar to refit a Raleigh badge. Mrs.E. describes it as Engineering OCD ...
We've had some excellent short breaks with Premier Inn, at Westminster Bridge (Waterloo) and County Hall - not sure how it would work with kids, but fine for adults coming in by train and wanting to do tourist stuff on a budget.
If the emphasis is on cheap, there are a few things you might already have at home:
Possibly acetone - try cheap nail varnish remover
Possibly isopropyl alcohol - try surgical spirits / rubbing alcohol
Possibly methylene chloride - try paint stripper but be aware of the fumes
I've used nail varnish remover in the past to remove excess thread locking compound during assembly - not sure how different it is when it's had time to cure...
Mine's Welsh and I'm on (but not from) the other Clee...