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mdcc_tester

Member since Nov 2009 • Last active Dec 2014

Most recent activity

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    ftfy

    You missed the chainring bolts and extractor cap. And the utterly pointless and incongruous fluting on the outer faces of the crank arms. Even after you've fixed that, you're still left with a fundamentally stupid design.

  • in Miscellaneous & Meaningless
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    This is the hub

    Have you actually pulled the hub apart to see what those cones and lock nuts thread onto?

  • in Miscellaneous & Meaningless
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    The threaded part measures 20mm long and 5mm across.

    5mm where; over the screw threads or inside the axle? Whatever the answer, the limit on tightening torque is going to be those hub threads whatever tool interface you put on the end, and if you want a 15mm AF spanner to be the tool you're going to have to get something made. Chopping down a solid M10×1.0mm axle from e.g. velosolo.co.uk/shophub.html is the least amount of machine work, but with the axle + nuts + machining you're still looking at spending ~£40 in order to get no improvement plus the need to carry a much heavier tool than an Allen or Torx key.

  • in Miscellaneous & Meaningless
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    Why for the love of track nuts can there not just be one standard size!

    That would be too easy. There is one standard size, 15mm AF with M10×1.0 threads rear and M9×1.0 front. Then there's non-standard Campag 15mm AF and 10mm/9mm×26tpi, and non-standard Miche 14mm AF with metric threads. Americans use yet another size for BMX hubs, ⅜"×26tpi both ends, apart from the ones which use 14mm×1.0mm nuts or ⅜"×24tpi screws (also found on American Classic track hubs). That just leaves the M6×1.0mm (Novatec) M8×1.25mm (Goldtec rear) and M10×1.5mm (Hope) screws to worry about :-)

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Worth embedding, Victory groupset deserves more love, not for being great in itself but for leading Campag out of the 30 rut of Record updates. The first modern Campag, in many ways.

  • in Miscellaneous & Meaningless
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    That's exactly the kind of wanton extravagance you'd expect from somebody who'd won the pools.

  • in Miscellaneous & Meaningless
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    I want the wheel to look like it's bolted in with traditional track nuts.

    Make some stepped studs, M10×1.0 on one end to take standard track nuts, whatever size fits your hub on the other end. Screw them into the axle with some Loctite 2700 to provide the axle extension required to accommodate your track nuts. Go easy with the peanut butter wrench if the hub end of your stud has a smaller thread than the nut end.

  • in Miscellaneous & Meaningless
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    Hang on, aren't track nuts 15mm?

    Yes, but that's cycling weirdness. Normal M10 nuts are 17mm AF, normal M8 screws are 13mm AF. In order to use the peanut butter wrench for both track nuts and crank bolts, special cycling nuts and screws are made with odd sizes.

    You haven't answered the question; what's the thread size of the screws which you don't like?

  • in Rides & Races
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    is that english humour ?

    Marco is neither English nor humourous.

  • in Miscellaneous & Meaningless
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    Is there a bolt with a 15mm head I can use instead of the stupid alan key bolts for my female hub axle?

    What thread size? The answer is still probably no, since 15mm AF isn't a normal nut or bolt head size. What are you finding particularly stupid about Allen key screws? If it's the inability to apply enough torque without damaging either the socket or the driver, Torx is the answer. If it's a rear hub, chain tugs are the answer, I have no trouble with my M6 hub retaining screws, because the chain tugs handle the chain tension so I only need to apply 6-8Nm to the screws to hold the wheel in the bike.

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